2020 Vision A World Adventure

2010-01-10T15:57:00.000-08:00

Huatabaumpito to Kino Bay
The drive to Kino was really uneventful and now we are at our home in Mexico. So the first evening we spent unloading all of the things out of the RV. What a job and we were really tired.
Next two days we spent trying to organize and get everything cleaned up. I pressure washed the RV even though I will be having someone wax it in the next day or so. Then get the house cleaned up and try to do some of the maintenance work on the RV. Wow we just have not had time to lay down and relax.
I may post two or three more blogs and then it will just be offline until the next trip.
I hope that all of your trips turn out to be as fun and as adventuresome as this one was for us.

2010-01-10T15:53:00.000-08:00

Mazatlan to Huatabampito

Sunset and the seagull
Roadway
Campsite

Today was an easy drive and our destination was where we stayed on the way down in Huatabaumpito near the city of Navajoa. What makes this drive really nice is that there are all toll roads so that the driving is easy and you are going 60-65 mph. It is so nice to see that you are covering so much ground in what you seems to be record time.
The landscape has certainly changed to flat farmland all the way. There are large fields of tomatoes and hay and corn which we have not seen in some time.
We are on the beach again in our campsite watching another sunset and walking down the beach.
It is much colder here at night than we have been used to but that is fine and we have full hookups here.

2010-01-10T15:47:00.000-08:00

Puerto Vallarta to Mazatlan
January 5, 2010

Lumber yard
Lumber
Road to Mazatlan
Bev's Statue
Bev's statue maker

Today was probably our longest day of driving and it was to say the least brutal. Really got on both of our nerves. We left PV at 8:00 AM for what was to be a 7 hour drive and got to out campground in Mazatlan at 7:30 PM. The last hour was driving in the dark and that is no fun when you are in the country or city in Mexico.
The campground that we are in is the same one that we stayed in on the way down so that is nice except now it is virtually filled with RVs. When we came down the place wasn’t even 25% full. Gosh what a difference just three to five months makes.
We starter out on Mex 200 north which is again a windy two lane road through the mountains heading toward Tepic. It seems that all we have done is cross mountains wherever we go. So when we arrived in Tepic it was good to see a cuota road again and know that we would be on a straight highway for a change.
Some of things that delayed us going out of PV were a stop at two lumber yards to get some wood. There was a further delay here as they had to cut the partial log that I selected into boards. But after that the parote wood that I got was stored into the living section of the RV and we were on the road again. About a two hour delay.
Then there was a delay to get stocked up with food at one of the large Sarriana stores and that took about an hour.
One more delay stopping to look at some wood carvings along the way and then purchasing a really nice one for Bev.
Then there was a delay to have lunch at a roadside pallapa restaurant and that was really slow service but the food was great. I had a pineapple that was sliced in half and then scooped out. Next they added hot shrimp, scallops, octopus, pineapple slices, tomatoes and onions. That was topped with a white cheese. UMMMMM good.
So all of these delays and then we could not find a spot to stay closer than Mazatlan. So here we are tired and grouchy. Well tomorrow will be a better day and we will sleep in. At least now I feel that we are out of the mountains and it should be all nice roads from here to home.

2010-01-10T15:41:00.000-08:00

Puerta Vallarta
January 4, 2010

Statue on the Malacon
PV Church
Seaside beach
Luncheon restaraunt
Riverside island shops

Today was another day to play tourist and see Puerta Vallarta (PV). We took the bus down to the Malacon (seaside boardwalk) and started walking around with our tourist map to see all of the art galleries. This is a town full of artists and art work from all over Mexico. Somewhat pricy but excellent workmanship and quality of sculptures, paintings and ceramics. Well we did not resist too much and then had to carry our treasures home with us. Then find a place to store them until we can arrive in Kino Bay. Luckily that is now within reason as we are headed north and should arrive soon.
Then it was time for a walk down the riverfront. PV in the old section of town is bisected by a river and in the river are islands. The islands are both a park and a place where tourists shop for the trinkets that they need to have to remind themselves that they were here. All of those T shirts, small ceramic bowls, towels and purses and belts that say SP on them.
Then it was time for lunch and we ate on the island at the very end where the river meets the ocean. It was an elegant lunch where we sat on a covered patio overlooking the ocean and the river and all was well with the world. So after that it was time to catch the bus back to our RV and just relax until it was time for dinner. I offered to take Bev out but tonight we are eating in and then turning in early as it will be a long driving day tomorrow.
But, take heart dear friends it looks as if tomorrow is the last day of driving on mountain tow lane roads. After that is is all toll roads and we are through with the mountains I think.
So with my glass of vino in hand I will say that this blog is finished. Possibly I will be able to post in the next day or so.

2010-01-10T15:34:00.001-08:00

Melaque to Puerto Vallarta
Jan 2-3, 2010

Bev in PV by the banyan tree
RV site in PV
Sunset along the way
Coastal road
Roadway

Yesterday was spent just relaxing in Melaque. We got the laundry done and I went for a swim in the ocean. The water here is still warm and the waves in this bay are just right. Not too rough. Then a stroll around the center of town and some shopping for little things.
We had lunch at a pallapa restaurant on the beach owned by a man from British Columbia who use to own an ashphalt company. Really an interesting person. As always our RV park which is on the beach here is filled with Canadians. Most again are from Quebec and the others from British Columbia and maybe one or two from Ontario. Oh, and one from Alaska. The US certainly does not seem to come to Mexico.
After our dinner we strolled the streets to look in the shops again and to have dessert. This seems to be a town that has more little dessert cake vendors and ice cream parlors than almost anywhere else we have visited. Bev got flan and I had chocolate cake with strawberries. During the day I even had a Thrifty’s ice cream cone. Now you just can not top that.
Today is Sunday and we are moving north again. Traffic was very light but the road was mostly narrow mountain again. Gee will I be glad to be finally out of the mountains. The vegetation was greatly small trees but we are defiantly moving away from the tropical areas. Very nice to drive with the trees forming a canopy over the road though.
We went thru one area called Tomatan and as you can guess the largest crops there were tomatoes. Lots of tomatoes.
The last 50-70 Km to Puerto Vallarta the road surface just got worse and worse. Why is it that a hugely tourist mecca with multiple high rise hotels and condos has to have some of the worst roads we have driven on in Mexico? You would think that with all of the money in this economy here that they could provide and want to provide a road with just a few less pot holes.
Finding the RV park here was the easiest we have encountered in all of those from the guidebook. Maybe we are just getting better at deciphering the book or maybe we were just lucky. Anyway, it is a lovely park (the Puerta Vallarta Trailer Park) with lots of palm trees for shade, nice grassy sites with brick patios. It looks more like a park than an RV park. It is also nice that it is situated close to town.
So tonight we should go out for dinner in town and tomorrow do some sightseeing.

2010-01-01T16:23:00.000-08:00

Tizupan to Melaque
January 1, 2010

Bananas and coconut palms
The coastline
Melaque beach
Coastline
Scruffy and the road

Today turned out to be a driving day. I thought and rightly so that there would be little traffic on the road today because it was Jan 1 and it was Friday so that people would not be going places today but would travel on Sunday instead. So after listening to Mexican Country music all night or at least until 3:00 AM we started on the road at 8:00 AM. I can sleep thru anything.
It was sad to leave that spot because it was so nice on the beach and so isolated from people and the staff were really nice. Only 4 RV’s in the whole place and it had a really nice restaurant.
The road was like driving Hwy 1 on the coast in CA or Oregon or the Blue Ridge Parkway in Tennessee. Lots of trees right up against the road with flowers of pink and yellow. Egrets flew across the windshield, and other birds I did not know what kind were in the trees. You had to be somewhat careful because they do not trim back the foliage from the side of the road and so it is easy to brush the side of the RV. Almost no traffic though and few trucks or busses.
Then you would come to a turn in the road on a cliff and be treated to the most magnificent beaches. Long shorelines of white sand and the surf lines as far as you could see. Down the arroyo there would be a shoreline and on either side of this would be rocky cliff sides. Just breathtaking and this was repeated all morning long.
We reached Tecoman after about 150 Km and there the landscape changed to a broad delta. Here there were coconut palms, banana palms and papaya plantations. The land was flat so the driving was faster here and the road changed to a toll road with four lanes.
We stopped here at a roadside cosina (small restaurant) and had a barbequed chicken, rice, tortillas and Fanta (orange drink). Imagine a whole barbequed chicken and all of that made like El Pollo Loco for about $4.50. Luncheon for two was never so good.
We stopped here also at an supermarket and loaded up with some more supplies before heading north. Other than larger cities you do not find large supermarkets but only small bodegas.
Next we made our way thru Manzanillo and I was glad that we came today because this city would not have been easy to navigate on a busy day. As it was we had only a few tight places to get thru.
From there it was onto Melaque and our campground. This is again a huge crescent bay looking out over the Pacific. There are lots of tourists here and we have the last available space in this park. It is right on the ocean and there are lots of shops right behind us and a multitude of restaurants on the beach here. I think that we will spend two days here before going to Puerta Vallarta.
For now it was a dip in the ocean when we got here and then a walk on the beach and then appetizers before going to dinner.

2010-01-01T16:18:00.000-08:00

New Years Eve 2009

Mexican barbaque
One of the bands
The beach where we are
Bev in her hammock

Well Happy New Years everyone Feliz Anyo Nuevo. We are here on the beach and the sun has gone down and we are listening to a live Mexican Country Western Band. They have really set up for the night with a large light system and all the paraphernalia for a real New Year’s extravaganza. Listening to them now without an amplified sound system is rather soothing and although we do not understand the lyrics the sounds are so melodic and sad just the way country music is meant to be. Love lost and love unfulfilled and all of the other sad tales of life.
They had also set up a sort of barbeque or something under one of the pallapas today and the men must have cooked about 60 pounds of meat. It was really interesting watching them cut it up from almost sides of beef or pork.
We are invited to the party and will go for awhile but tomorrow we are heading north again. It was decided to make this a rest day and that is exactly what we did. A walk on the beach and lying in the hammocks was all that we accomplished. This is really a lovely site with the ocean surf waking you in the morning and the site of the crashing surf over the rocky cliff sides that surround this idyllic little bay.
Tonight it will be dinner in the restaurant and I think after watching all that food being prepared I feel like a steak. Maybe even a cervesa if that is not going too far. One does not like as you know to be caught in the grip of the grape. Ah well, it is New Year’s Eve.
So tomorrow, after the night of revelry, all of our resolutions will be made and the football games watched and the sandwiches and nachos eaten and life will be good.

2010-01-01T16:14:00.000-08:00

Zihuatanejo to north of Guagua Mexico
December 30, 2009

Tizupan camping beach
Bev at our lunchsite
Sunset at Tizupan
Tizupan coastline

Today’s drive was not a long one but very fascinating. We are about 100 miles from Tecoman on Hwy 200 going along the west coast of Mexico. We are closer to Tizupan than Guagua. Today we passed into the State of Michoacan from Guerrero State. The coastline here is very similar to thee northern California/ Oregon coast with rocky cliffs that plunge to the sea and rocky small islands off the coast with surf crashing over the tops of them. Then you will round a bend and go down a mountain (these are really small mountains) and you will be on a shoreline with beautiful sandy beaches and the surf coming in long rolling waves that just invite you to go swimming. Only the coconut plantations and papaya plantations along the beach made you realize that you were not in Northern California. And, the water here is warm.
Traveling north along this coastline, we did not have anything in the guidebook listing an RV park or place to stay but sometimes you must just trust your instincts that one would be there when you needed it. We stopped for lunch on a cliff overlooking the ocean and had a great lunch. Bev had a whole fish that was just covered with garlic and other aromatic spices, rice, a salad, french fries and some really hot salsa. I had a kind of breaded and fried shrimp but not the usual breading it was more of a special sauce breading, and again salsa, rice, french fries, and a salad. Of course fresh warm tortillas that are made very thick here.
First off trying to select a campsite we came across several potential sites that the roads to the beach were just too steep for Big Tigre. So at one, I asked directions from four Mexican students who were trying to go north. They said that the best beach was still 1 ½ hours north and would I give them a ride if I went that way. So sure enough we gave them a ride. Most interesting kids.
Next a leisurely drive again heading north and then we came to a wide beach with a restaurant, hotel and RV park and just 20 minutes north of our hitchhikers. So I told them that if they stayed the night there I would give them a ride in the morning but they wanted to be on their way so we said goodbye and they were glad for the lift that we had given them. Well now we had a place to spend the night and enjoy the pool as well as a large pallapa to sit under and a hammock to relax in. All the while we could watch the ocean waves curling and pounding as the surf hit the shoreline. Wow, this is just a great place to be. We have full hookups for 200 pesos a night ( about $17.50), almost no one on the beach and a great restaurant right next door.
We had some appetizers at the restaurant and met a wonderfully interesting couple. She was from Mexico and he was from Canada and they had been circus performers for 20 some years. Now he is a project manager for a construction company in Canada and they were visiting her family who own one of the largest circuses in Mexico. It is always so interesting to meet the other travelers on a journey such as this one.
We may stay here for New Year’s Eve or move on I am not sure at this time.

2010-01-01T16:01:00.000-08:00

Allagators at dinner
Lunches and dinners
Bev buying souveniers at Tizupan
More food

Just a few photos of our friends at dinner and the beach

2009-12-29T19:40:00.001-08:00

Acapulco to Zihuatanejo Mexico
December 29, 2009

Lunch on a cliff
Coastline along the way
Rocky coastline
Beach in front of the campsite
Boardwalk over the alligators to the beach

Today was one of those great days when traveling that you just want to save in your memory book. We left Acapulco and took Mex 200 north along the coast route to our next destination.
The route was lined with coconut palms and plantations and the first ½ of the journey we did have quite a lot of road construction but no mountains so that the driving was easy. Then the second half was like the northern California coast or Oregon Coast. Long sandy beaches were seen from on top of cliffs as you drove along a two lane winding road and then dropped down to sea level.
Along the way we stopped and bought two hammocks for the home in Mexico which should make enjoying the beach so much better. I had been looking for one since Guatemala but these were a must buy.
Then a luncheon atop a cliff side restaurant with banana leaf steamed fish for Bev and a steak for me with the best warm thick tortillas that we have had. Then onto Zihuatanejo and our campsite. The town is a tourist mecca with Ixtapa right next to it.
No day would go by without getting lost and this on was no exception. We wound up down a very narrow street with a dead end and no way out but to back up a block with the RV. Then going down the street to the RV park having to back up again because we could not fit under the archway over the road going to the park so that we had to go the wrong way down one street so that we could fit in. Ah well that is becoming the norm for us so it does not seem quite so different now.
The RV park is behind a restaurant with full hookups and the beach is right in front of us. This is by far the most touristy area we have visited so far and the beach is packed with people. We are more familiar with beaches that are deserted and being the only tourists in the whole town. Well this was quite a change.
Right next to the RV park is a river that does not go quite to the ocean and is fenced for good reason. Alligators are in the river and we watched them while having dinner at the restaurant. Makes for a great way to end the day while watching the light of the day fad away to nightfall.
Tomorrow we will try to get ½ the way to Manzanillo as this is 260 miles and a bit too much to drive in one day.

2009-12-29T19:34:00.000-08:00

Acapulco
December 28, 2009

Sunset in Acapulco
Campsite at sunset
Beach at Alcapulco
Pallapa lunch

Today was just a day at the beach in Acapulco. No sightseeing, no traveling, no tourist things to do. Just relax, relax, relax.
We walked on the beach, read under the palapa, and sat in our pool by the RV. They have a large central pool here in the park but we were content to just sit by the little pool that was next to our RV.
I did venture out some to talk to some of the other residents of the park. We are the only US license plate in the whole RV park and there must be at least 30 rigs here. All of the other RVs are from Canada with the exception of two from Mexico. Fully over half of the RVs from Canada are from Quebec and one from Ontario and all the rest from British Columbia. It really is a shame that more people from the US do not come down here.
I was told that the RV park just down the road from us was almost totally Quebec. Now those people really have a long way to travel to get here. Most people seem to be seasonal and come for about 5 months and then go back so they can keep their medical insurance.
Well I took some sunset pictures so that you all can see what it is like here and tomorrow it is off to Zihuatanejo. This is the small Mexican town near Ixtapa. So hopefully we will have fast enough internet there that I can post the blogs. Here they have internet but it is painfully slow.

2009-12-29T19:28:00.000-08:00

Cuernavaca to Acapulco
December 27, 2009

Canyon
Bridge
Campsite
More roads

We left our lovely Pemex station this morning and headed towards the city of Acapulco. Most of you know this as the city of the cliff divers and the horses on the beach. Well we will probably not see the cliff divers as they are in the city proper beaches an I have seen one too many inner cities for now and have no intention of driving back into Acapulco.
It was 150 miles of mountains and although the roads were very good it was still 150 miles of mountains. After this trip I will be glad, more than glad to just drive on flat endless desert without a view of a mountain for a very long time. One or tow mountains are fine but endlessly as we have had on this trip are just tooooooooooo much.
It is breathtaking though all of the scenery and I do appreciate looking down on endless landscapes that look like the Grand Canyon.
After arriving in the outskirts of Acapulco you must go thru one more tunnel before entering the city. Now this tunnel is about 1Km or more long and in an RV I was glad there was not much traffic today.
We were looking for Av Adolfo Ruiz Cortines to make a right hand turn in the city to take us out to the campground. Now this is simple enough when you see the sign just turn right. Except that this is the second time we have seen the sign for a street but the sign means that you turn in one more block not where the sign is posted. So needless to say I was lost again and this was after asking for directions for three or four times. Finally, after asking again a kindly man said to follow him and after navigating streets that were barely one lane wide, and making turns that you had to back up and take a second shot at, and then narrowly not going down a street with a street market on it we were again on the right street and headed in the right direction.
One more turn after a few miles and we were on our way to Cadiz pie de la Cuesta. After driving for so long (it was now 12:30 PM) we were in a very tourist area on a two lane road lined with restaurants and small hotels so it was time for lunch. We stopped at a small restaurant which had a pallapa out on the beach and had there Red Snapper (which was a whole fish, wrapped and steamed in a banana leaf), rice, guacamole, french fries, salad and tortillas for about $7.00. This was a dinner that was enough for both of us.
Afterwards it was time to find our campgrounds which turned out to be quite easy this time. After all it even had a sign that said it was a campground, so how could we miss it.
It turns out that this may be one of the best we have stayed at so far. We have a beachfront campsite with its own pallapa, table, and pool. That’s right there is a small pool for each campsite as well as a large common pool.
Life just does not seem to get better than this but in two days it is time to move north again to the Zihuatanejo area. I understand that we should expect major road construction and slow driving on this next stretch. Not that we have not experienced that before. After all who else can say that they forded a river on their camping adventure in and RV.

2009-12-29T19:23:00.000-08:00

Oaxaca to Cuernavaca
December 26, 2009

Down the mountain
Snow on the mountain
Active volcano
More mountain roads

We woke early this morning and got the rig ready to travel and by about 8:00 AM we were on the road to Cuernavaca. I wanted to leave Oaxaca early as we had to pass around most of the city to get to the cuota road to Puebla. Fortunately, on the periferico (ring road) the traffic was very light and we did not loose our way and were out of the city in what I thought was really good time. Next onto the toll road Hwy 135 going towards Puebla. Now this started as a 4 lane road but quickly became a Mexican 3 lane. This is a normal driving lane with a wide shoulder for traffic to pull over onto when others wish to pass.
You must remember that Oaxaca is at 5,200 feet altitude and Mexico City which is the direction we were headed is at over 7,000 feet altitude. In between however the altitude goes to about 9,800 feet and then down again. So there was lots of mountain climbing to be done today. Fortunately today the road was good and there was no 25 mph driving around sharp curves all day long. Still it made for a very long day and a tiring one.
That was my fault as I wanted to be beyond the traffic going back to Mexico City on Sunday. So rather than pull into Pueblo for the night we continued on to Cuernavaca.
So first it was onto Hwy 150 towards Puebla and then trying to get onto the Periferico in Puebla which we totally missed and went clear around the city finally winding up on the Hwy to Atlixco. From there a jog over to Cualtla on Hwy 180 and there is where it got interesting.
The turnoff for Yautepec was nicely signed and I took it but it was not the highway but a road into the small puebla itself. So we found ourselves again on a small narrow road without directions and then behind a funeral of people on foot. Needless to say this was frustrating and nerves were getting raw. Finally after three or four stops for directions a man said to follow him and he would take us to the road to Cuenavaca. We followed over again narrow streets with topes every 100 feet or so until sure enough we finally made it to the road to Cuernavaca.
Now our campground was supposed to be near the Airport which was west and south of Cuernavaca but even with the directions from the guidebook we could not find it. So we backtracked to the autopista to Acapulco and then finally found a Pemex station (our home away from home) to spend the night at.
The guard came out after we had parked and said that it was ok to spend the night and that this was a safe place to stay and that we would be ok here. So here we are after 10 hours of driving and we are really exhausted.
So bye for now and tomorrow we should be somewhere north of Acapulco for the next few days.

2009-12-29T19:17:00.000-08:00

Christmas Day
Oaxaca, Mexico

Campsite
Setting up for Christmas dinner
Or Derves being served

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE

Today we did not travel at all but just relaxed. It was nice to do no sightseeing or traveling for a day. We did however, have tgo get ready for our Christmas dinner. LeAnn and Jay had invited us over for a festive dinner and all of the others in the park. They were all Canadians in the park and from Quebec to British Columbia. In all we had about 17 people for dinner including three of the staff from the park.
Well we had our turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, vegetables, and Bev made guacamole for an appetizer. We had cabbage rolls, and for dessert there was a German cake, or pecan pie, or chocolate covered fruit, and ice cream.
We had a nice little campfire at night and sat around and talked about all sorts of adventures.
We will be sorry to leave here in the morning but the decision to go to Cuernavaca and then south to Acapulco instead of the difficult roads directly to the coast has been made. Next it was decided that it would be better to leave on Saturday rather than our scheduled Sunday because of the holiday traffic which would be coming back from spending the long weekend with their families.
So there you have it. I hope that Santa was good to all of you.

2009-12-29T19:09:00.000-08:00

Oaxaca Central City
December 24, 2009

Portico
Lunch
Weaver's loom
Weaver
Library

Today was a relaxing day and not as much sightseeing. First off was a trip downtown to see the home of Benito Juarez. He was considered similar to the Abraham Lincoln of Mexico. Although born a poor Indian he was eventually educated as a lawyer and eventually became president of Mexico. A firm believer in the rights of the individual and the separation of church and state he was often at odds with the powerful in Mexican society. He was exiled for part of his life because of his beliefs and even his government had to move from city to city because of their causes.
Next was a visit to the Museum of Graphic arts which was mostly a library of all of the books on art and graphic arts. Really not very interesting but the architecture of the building was great.
Then we visited the public library which was housed in an old casa and the courtyards were just really splendid. Off of the courtyards there were rooms which held the library and it would have been just a great place to read and enjoy yourself.
We stopped and peered into several churches along the way. It seems that almost every other block houses a giant church. The gold leaf and the exquisite murals and ceilings just awe you each time that you see another one. Still the most impressive so far was the Dominican Church.
Last stop was the Mercado of the Artisans where the weavers were. There we bought three rugs which all have natural dyes and we could not resist (I could not resist, Bev has great resistance). Then it was onto the Zocalo to have lunch before coming back to the RV park. I had eggs Oaxaca style which means with a white cheese and in a red tomato sauce and then bread and tortillas on the side. Bev had a fruit salad plate with pineapple, melon, watermelon, mango and banana. We ate in the portico again and watched the pedestrian traffic in the park.
I tried to start the generator again but I am afraid that it is a lost cause until we get back to the US and I can have someone look at it. It appears that it is the ignition switch or the ignition module that is the problem and for that they will not have the parts here. So no generator unfortunately while we are boon docking and that means no A/C, or microwave, or hair dryer. Ah well, hopefully we will be in campgrounds most of the time from here on in.
Tonight was a really great dinner at a local restaurant. They surely know how to cook beefsteak here and the filletes are just great. Strips of beef sort of barbequed, with a tortilla and cheese wrap covered in mole sauce on the side, and some sort of white sauce and cheese and vegetables and pasta, and then refried black beans. Ah, eating has been good here in Oaxaca.
We were going to take Hwy 175 to the coast from here but after hearing all of the stories about that road we will be going Hwy 135 to Pueblo and then another toll road to Acapulco and then along the coast to Kino Bay. So Sunday we will leave here and head North once again.
For tomorrow it is Christmas dinner with others in the park and call the kids at home to see how they are and just sit around.
Well that tells you all that we have to say for now so Merry Christmas Eve to you all.

2009-12-24T13:48:00.000-08:00

Festival of the Radish
December 23, 2009

Angels of radish
Dolls of radish
Horses of radish
Nativity scene
People in the Zocalo

Tonight we went to the Zocalo (main plaza ) and went to see the Festival of the Radish. This is a major fiesta here and it seems that the whole town turns out to view the radishes that are carved and put onto display. First off remember that this square covers a whole city block and all around the outside of the square there are tables set up in a perimeter.
On each table about 6 feet long is a display by one group or another from around the state that are competing for the best prize to be given out.
There is a raised walkway set up in front of the exhibits and even though we got there early at 5:00 pm we would have been 20-30 minutes just to get into line to go on the raised walkway. So we elected to go outside the walkway and still were able to see all of the exhibits.
Some of the sections of exhibits were of only the stocks of the radishes made into figurines and complete elaborate scenes with nativity scenes being them most popular.
There was a section of large carved radishes and these were maybe 6-9” or longer in size. Then there was an area of what seemed to be radish flowers arranged into again depicted scenes. Well again I hope that you will see some of it in the pictures.
Next it was time for dinner at a sidewalk restaurant. Bev had the triple tostadas, which was three kinds of tostados (beef, turkey, ham and a vegetarian). I had a grilled steak with mole, guacamole, cactus with cheese and a creamed tortellini with cheese and some sort of vegetable. Really great eating here.
By now the plaza had completely filled with people and you literally could not walk around so it was time to find a taxi and head for home.

2009-12-24T13:41:00.000-08:00

Santa Maria Atzompa
December 23, 2009

Local artisan
Kiln and cows in the backyard
Pottery
Plates

After leaving the ruins at Monte Alban we took a taxi to the small puebla of Santa Maria Atzompa where they make pottery. This is a unique pottery with either a green glaze and also some that is the reddish unglazed pottery but is decorated with all kinds of small flowers and other things.
The pottery artisans are mostly home affairs and you just walk along the street and knock on doors and they let you into their studios (really the back yards and a room for showing you things. Each home or artisan seems to specialize in doing something just a little different and it is quite interesting to just walk along and browse. Still we came away with more than we needed to carry with us and some that we left behind because there just was no room.
The ride to the center of Oaxaca from here was in a collective taxi. That’s one where you share the taxi with others and there were 5 of us plus the driver in a small car going over some really interesting roads to get to Oaxaca Central. After that a taxi ride to Colonia Reforma and we were home. It never ceases to surprise me that a taxi driver can find our place without a map or me giving directions but just the address. They all seem to know where to go without fail.

2009-12-24T13:34:00.000-08:00

Monte Alban
December 23, 2009

Astrology building
Pregant Woman
Callendar
Site views
Site views

The morning started early for us and Bev did not want to get out of bed but I reminded her that we had agreed to get up early to go see the ruins. We were not to sure that this would be a great site after what we had already seen but we would go and spend the morning. Well what a pleasant surprise.
The museum on site was really quite good and the displays were in English and Spanish as well as an Indian dialect. Then we got a guide who was a native and spoke excellent English and he was 75 years old and climbing these ruins every day. This is a pre Mayan, pre Aztec ruin and has 4 different sets of ruins one on top of the other. It is superbly preserved because it was abandoned before the Spanish came and therefore they did not know it was there so it was not destroyed as many of the sites were.
It was an extensive site laid out facing true north - south in alignment.
Remember that this was an agrarian society and therefore astrological knowledge was of prime importance to them. Their calendar was based on the seasons and extremely accurate.
They had an observatory at the site aligned so that the winter and summer solstice could be recorded. A ball field where a kind of Olympics was held every 52 years. And many pyramids and temples and plazas. Remember that the common people did not live here only the very elite.
Their culture was quite advanced in medicine and performed surgery on the skull, caesarian sections for birth and also abdominal surgery. Their language was written but on stone tablets which have yet to be translated. All this about 2000 BC.
The last culture to inhabit this site was about 500 AD and then it was abandoned for some reason.
It is hard to visualize the entire complex was once covered with plaster and no grass grew here. AH well I know that these photos do not do it justice but I hope that you can see some of the magnificence that we saw here.

2009-12-23T12:49:00.001-08:00

The Dominican Convent and Museum
December 22, 2009

Church interior
Patio
Portico
Library with volumes to 1500
Scale model of the convent

Well this was probably the best example of colonial architecture that we have seen on our trip. The church and convent grounds could easily have covered 4 city blocks. And it is right in the center of the city. There were multiple courtyards and gardens and everything was in huge green stone.
The church and many of the ceilings of the convent were gold leaf statuary and paintings. Really awesome to look up and visualize the work that it took to create this wonder.
The rooms of the convent or part of the convent were converted to a museum showing the history of the area.
The Inca and Mayan jewelry was just amazing to see. Silver and gold necklaces that were done in incredible detail considering what they used for tools. There were turquoise necklaces and turquoise headpieces and pottery with detail that made it most unique.
We spent several hours in this museum and did not do it justice. Even the arched porticos surrounding the courtyards were painted with murals or had bricked ceilings. Just amazing to walk thru it.
Well I hope that the pictures that are limited I realize will show you some of its glory.

2009-12-23T12:40:00.000-08:00

Oaxaca Exploration
December 22, 2009

Governor's courtyard
Church
Tacos at night
Governor's Courtyard 2
Wedding
Dancer

Today we played tourists and explored the central area of Oaxaca. What a great day. First a taxi ride to the Central Zocalo (the central park of the city) after dropping off the laundry at the lavenderia. The Zocala was all decorated out for Christmas with poinsettias everywhere. They were also getting ready for the Night of the Radish which will be tomorrow and we will go down there for that.
First was a visit to the main cathedral which always is on one side of the park. A magnificent structure made with the green stone that is common to this area. Then a trip down the street to the artisans Mercado which occupied a block in what was once part of a church I think. Lots of stalls and other things to see.
Today was Tuesday which is market day in Oaxaca so there were lots of stalls on certain streets where the street is closed to traffic and vendors have a real swap meet with everything from arts and crafts to meat, fish, fruits and vegetables. All lining the sidewalk and spilling into the street. So we walked down one street of those and back to the Zocalo to have something to eat at one of the outdoor restaurants. A local dish made of a giant tortilla with meat, mole, tomatoes and other stuff served open faced. Really a great lunch.
Then it was onto the former Governor’s Palace which is now a museum for the state to show off its history and the products that are made there and the peoples that inhabit it. These palaces were huge two story affairs with lots of arches and courtyards in the center of the building with the government offices housed here. Again this was also a structure located on one side of the Zocalo. Really incredible architecture to these buildings and the murals in them were impressive also.
Then it was time to go over to the Ex Dominican Convent ( I think the Convent of Santa Catalina). We arrived just as a wedding was coming out of the church just as we got there and they had costumed dancers, a mariachi band and large costumed people on stilts to greet the wedding party. They even had girls giving out mescal to the people outside the church to toast the wedding party and yes I did wish them the best. Quite an affair with the bride, groom, and all of the families gathered outside the front of the church in the plaza.
We then went into the former convent which is now a museum but I will do a separate blog on that alone.
After visiting the convent which I must say was huge and spectacular we had an iced café frappachino at an Italian coffee shop on the plaza. Then a walk down the street to visit another street fair where Bev could not resist some extra things that we will need to find room for in the RV.
Then a taxi ride home. I did not want to take little TT out today not knowing the traffic and where we were going. Good thing as the streets are all cobblestone here and that would have made it difficult to drive. Then it was tacos at the street market just next to the RV park. Great tacos at a great price too. Five tacos and all of the extra stuff for about $3.50. Then pick up the laundry and come back to the RV and put everything away. Next I will try to go to the coffee shop next to the Sorriana Store (al large supermarket) and try to get these emails out.
Tomorrow we will visit the ruins here and then go to the festival at night.

2009-12-23T12:32:00.001-08:00

Salina Cruz, Mexico to Oaxaca, Mexico
December 21, 2009

Grinding the aguave
Filling my barrel
Mountain range to Oaxaca
Aguave cactus

Well by now most of you are either ready for Christmas or will be in another 4 days. So Merry Christmas all and I hope that all of you get everything you wish for that you really need. Boy a lot of people may be disappointed.
Today was not a long distance to drive but a long driving day. From sea level to where we are I counted that we crossed at least 4 mountain ranges. Yessirree, not mountains but mountain ranges. Slow going on a two lane road with hairpin turns every few hundred feet. Pueblas with lots of topes or here they call them reductors. We left at 8:00 AM and arrived at about 3:00 PM to travel a total of about 150 miles. There were a few short stops but nothing to speak of just really slow driving and after trying to pass once and nearly having a head on that was the end of passing for me for the day.
The countryside changed again dramatically from what would seem to be scrub oak and Manzanita to some pine and cactus.
After crossing the first two mountain ranges we noticed plantings of what looked to be aguave cactus that they make tequila out of. Then after the third mountain range we stopped and it was not tequila they were making but mescal. Now I do not know the difference in the process or the cactus used but it looked like it was probably the same. We tasted some of the cactus at a small (and I do mean small) distillery. The taste was like a sweet candy and you could say that you could eat it just like that except for the stringiness of it. So we bought two bottles of the non exported stuff and then a small barrel of it. Oh well it lasts forever you know and I got to take a picture of the burrow that was mashing the cactus.
It was then onto Oaxaca and then try to find the RV park. Well down the wrong street and bottomed out there and then squeeze by cars that were double parked on both sides of the street. Bev had to guide me thru that. Then we came to the street it was on and could not go further because of construction on a building on that street. The cranes had completely blocked that direction and you had to go around if you wanted to get thru.
I got out first and looked for ways to get around and then asked directions for the 4th time and this time the woman in the store on the corner said no that it was right there and the entrance was just in the middle of the block. So by moving the barricade to the street we were able to get into the park without having to go around the block. Thank god because that would have been a chore not welcomed.
We are staying in the Oaxaca Trailer Park which is the closest one to the central part of town. Tomorrow we will check out the main center of town and then see what else there is. Probably take a taxi the first time before I venture out with TT (our scooter).
We are planning on staying here till Sunday which will be a long time for us, but with Christmas coming I do not want to move so soon and it will be nice to relax for awhile.
Now if I can find an internet café tomorrow the blogs will get posted and I also need to find a machine because we are running out of cash

2009-12-23T12:06:00.001-08:00

Mapastepec, Mexico to Salina Cruz, Mexico
December 20, 2009

Salina Cruz
Night camp beside the toll booth
Chilies in the market
Mountain range

Well after last night today was an easy drive. As you may recall we were in what I thought would be a nice quiet Pemex station last night. Well just as we were about to go to sleep the trucker bar/restaurant across the road started to blare their music. It did not stop until about 4:00 AM and was loud, Mexican country music. Then after that the trucks started up their engines getting ready to roll for the day.
The good news was the roads are definitely better, mostly Mexican 3 lane roads that have a large shoulder on one side that you are supposed to straddle so that traffic can pass easily from either direction.
We have also encountered rain almost all day and there was rain yesterday and last night. Too bad, because we could have seen the coastline most of the way if it had not been for the overcast and the rain.
I was told when we left that Salina Cruz which is on the coast would have lots of places for us to stay at. Well you must realize that we do not stay in hotels but in hotel parking lots. Unfortunately the town sits in a small enclosed valley and the central area has no hotel parking lots and there were none on the outskirts of town. So we are tonight at a cuota booth (toll booth) outside of town and in a secure area with parking in a kind of rest stop.
We did stop in Arriaga on the way here and went to the central market in town to pick up some vegetables and fruit that we needed to replace for what was confiscated at the border. Central markets in these towns are always a fun place to visit with lots of activity going on. Even for a Sunday there were lots of stalls open and the sidewalk was crowded with vendors and their small trucks or just sidewalk stalls overflowing with fresh fruit and vegetables. We came away with everything but bread as I was not able to find a panaderia.
We had lunch at a pollo chicken place. A barbequed chicken, tortillas, limes and rice for about $6.00 and then I got a macaroni salad and some drinks. You just can not beat the Mexicans at cooking barbequed chicken. They are large and butterflied on a wood grill and seasoned to that El Pollo kind of taste. That was great.
Just one day’ drive today made a dramatic change in the vegetation. We went from tropical jungle to a sort of scrub oak and Manzanita brush. There was not as much rainfall you could tell as there were large areas of brown grass on the mountains. Next we were in almost a sort of California dessert type of climate except with a few more trees and the scrub brush was more dense and higher. The volcanic mountains gave way delta perhaps 10 miles wide, and we continued north along the coastline.
There were still many rivers at first coming out of the mountains but even these dwindled as we got further north.
The city of Salinas Cruz has what appear to be lots of farmed fishing in as large estuary north of town and I wish we could have stayed there because the views coming down the hill into the city were really great.
Tomorrow we go to Oaxaca and this should be a great time to see it as the Radish festival is there in three more days. Yes that’s right the Radish Festival where they carve dolls heads and things from radishes. Oaxaca is also known for its artisans and silverwork so it should be an enjoyable stay. I hope to have internet there and maybe I can finally get all of these blogs posted. No we have not fallen off the end of the world good friends.
Lastly today is the day that I married the beautiful Beverley Raia some 40 years ago. So, lucky man that I am I chose wisely and what she saw in me there is some question about but I won her over with charm or wit or maybe she just felt sorry for the geek who was always studying.

2009-12-22T19:08:00.000-08:00

Coatepeque, Guatemala to Mapastepec, Mexico
December 19, 2009

Street market
Salina Cruz
Rock out of the RV
Mexico welcome

Well this was a real day to put into the memory books. We got up early and left the resort, headed for the border. This is at Ciudad Tecun Uman (?sp). Well first off we got into the area that was for trucks and cargo only. So backtrack and then go thru the city to find the aduana for the cars and buses. Got lost and wound up in the bus depot and had to turn around. Now this may seem simple to you but the two busses I had to get by left me about one inch on either side to navigate on a less that even surface. So there was no option but to go forward. Well no damage. Next down the narrow streets again to try to find the Frontera or border. Got to the border finally and did not use the border helpers this time but got my vehicle papers checked out of Guatemala.
On to immigration to get the passports signed out of Guatemala and that was no problem and only 20 Casales to pay for a municipal tax.
So we are now on our way over the bridge and into Mexico. Oh yippee yah yaaa. So first stop is the fumigation of the vehicle which means here just spraying the tires. Eighty pesos later and we are onto the Mexican Aduana to get that done. Well first is agriculture where they took all of our fruits and vegetables and eggs. I had the Aduana papers for both vehicles so no problem with that.
Next is Mexican immigration and again before leaving Mexico last I had them stamp our tourist visas for return, so we were now done with Mexican Immigration.
Upon leaving I heard a definite thump, thump on one of the tires. I was just thinking yesterday that we had had no tire problems on the whole trip and that was really fortunate. Ok Bev we have to get off the road as soon as possible something I think is really wrong here. Fortunately we spotted a Pemex (gas) station about 100 yards up the road. Pulled over and checked the tire pressure on all of the tires and everything was ok. All right Bev get in the RV and pull forward slowly. Front tires are good, so pull forward and I will check the rear tires. That’s when I spotted the problem, a rock about 6” long and 3-4” wide wedged between the rear drivers dual tires. Now what to do?
I tried to hammer the offending rock out from the two tires with no luck so then I had Bev jack up the rear of the RV (fortunately we have hydraulic levelers) and tried again. Still no luck. So then deflate one of the tires and try again. Still no luck in getting that bolder out of there. So lets back up to the tire pump so that we can re-inflate both tires later and deflate both the dual tires. Well that finally worked and after 1-2 hours of pounding and getting under the RV and over and under the tires I looked like a regular grease monkey. Bev offered me a clean shirt.
So now it was off again after re-inflation of the tires although there compressor only got me to 81psi so we will have to find a tire store or truck place to go to 86 psi.
The roads in Mexico got decidedly better than Guatemala and after a couple of stops for paper checks we were good to go. One of the stops wanted to fine me for going into the car lane instead of the truck and bus lane but after a few minutes and talking to the supervisor it was dismissed. Got to really love the bureaucracy everywhere in the world.
Now we are on our way north and only had to ask for directions mucho times and then not sure you are going the right way but signage is better and the road is really better.
We looked for a place to stay the night and there were no hotels that I felt we could fit into. Then the distance between towns got longer and so we finally wound up in a Pemex station for the night. Not my favorite spot but safe and there are no armed guards in this part of the world so safety is not as much of a problem. Tomorrow WE WILL NOT TRY TO GO SO FAR!!!

2009-12-22T19:03:00.000-08:00

Amatitlan, Guatemla to Coatepeque, Guatemala
December 18, 2009

Mountains in Guatemala
Welcome to
Parrot
Monkey

We set out this morning from the water park and took the route probably southwest to the city of Escuintla and then north. First part of the journey was great with four lane roads and great surface. I had almost reconsidered the road conditions in Guatemala. This journey was all downhill, on 5-6-7-8% grades but just one big mountain. Then we went north and the four lane went to two lanes and the road surface went to pot. It must be the overloaded trucks because the road did not look that old but the shaking never stopped. We ran into lots of sugar cane trucks here and lots of sugar refining companies. The trucks lumber along at about 20 mph and the traffic really backs up.
This part of the journey was on somewhat flat delta so maybe Guatemala does have some parts that are flat (but not many).
We stopped for groceries at a Plaza de los Americas which always has a Mega grocery store as well as lots of other shops in it. Sort of like a two or three story shopping center but anchored with a supermarket. Lots of people in it possibly doing Christmas shopping. Yes there was Christmas music and all of the decorations were up.
Next a stop for lunch at Taco Bell (you heard that right Taco Bell and Burger King, Pizza Hut and Mac are all here in the larger towns. Makes you feel sort of at home but hoping that the original little sopas (diners) do not disappear and all we have is American fast food in the world. It is sort of unusual here to see two armed guards standing at the doors of a fast food restaurant. They have security here everywhere and I mean with shotguns and the whole bit. We passed a gas station that even had a guard tower that looked like you see at a prison with gun slots high up on the second floor.
After a burrito and some fries we left and were in luck because I spotted a butane tank place. Yes we were getting low on fuel for the water heater, stove and the refrigerator. So we stopped and were let in the gate by the guard and filled the tank. That should last till we get home.
Tonight we are staying at the Costa Real Resort facility with a pool that we took the plunge into earlier to refresh ourselves. They have parrots and monkeys on the grounds and they are a real treat to watch.
I was not able to get onto their internet even though they gave me the password so this post will have to wait with the others that I have not sent in about a week. So when you hear from us we did not drop off the face of the earth and were not kidnapped. All is well with Lorne, Bev and Scruffy.
We are only 70 Km from the border so tomorrow we will again cross into Mexico. If we get out of Guatemala, OK then getting into Mexico should be easy as I already have the vehicle permits. And that folks is the last bad time consuming border we should have to cross. Although with all of the stamps now in our passports I expect coming back into the US we will be scrutinized more thoroughly than in the past.

2009-12-22T18:58:00.000-08:00

Ahauchapan, El Salvador to Amatitlan, Guatemala
December 17, 2009

Traffic try to get thru this
Buying bread
Roads
More traffic

Well today was one of those driving days one would rather forget ever happened. We started off fine from in El Salvador and made our way to Las Chinamas and the border to Guatemala. Turned in the papers for El Salvador without too much of a problem we just had to wait for the official to return from breakfast to sign off the vehicles. You see he does not come back until 9:00 AM. Then onto the border and get emigration stamps in the passports from El Salvador, that was really fast. Next turn in the vehicle papers that were signed one Km back and you cross over the bridge into Guatemala.
Now find the Aduana (vehicle permit place) and immigration for Guatemala which is about 2 Km down the road. Find a parking space where they tell you to park. Now change parking places because it is the wrong place and park where you were going to park in the first place. Next move the vehicle again because it is too dangerous to park there with the traffic going right beside you.
Now find the vehicle permit place, the person is on a break and will be back ???. Person comes back and looks at you and says you must go to immigration first. So off you trot and get you passport stamped. Back to the vehicle window and wait for the line which has now blossomed. Get to the front of the line and find out you must go back to another window and get your visa sticker before you get the vehicle permit.
Go to the window for the visas and they fill out a form from your passport. Now go to another window for the bank and pay for the visas. Visas are now paid for so go back to the immigration window and collect the visas.
Now go outside again and go to the vehicle permit window (grateful that there is no line). Stand and wait for the official to finish their telephone conversation and then hand them the papers. Wait for the forms to be entered into the computer for the vehicles. Next wait for the forms to be stamped and stamped and signed and signed by the official.
Now get into your vehicle and approach the guard at the stop with the boom hanging down over the road. Give him your vehicle papers and passports and visas. A cursory check and you are now admitted to Guatemala. This is now 11:30 AM and just another routine border crossing without problems or hassles and you are glad because it did not involve border helpers who are usually there to rip you off, and no mordidas to pay.
Then you are driving in Guatemala where the roads are not as good as El Salvador and let me tell you if I did not mention this on the way down. Guatemala is ONE BIG MOUNTAIN!!! It goes up (possibly 40 Km (15-20 miles)) and then it goes down. Never of course in a straight line. I do not think that there is one square mile of flat in this whole country. You are going 30 mph and think this may be too fast.
I had tried to escape going thru Ciudad de Guatemala but no such luck. As I may for directions we went ¾ ths of the way around that city which is your worst nightmare in an RV. Traffic that makes LA look really good and it is as if you were going towards San Francisco from San Diego but had to go down to Santa Monica first and then up to Thousand Oaks before you went over the Grapevine three times to get to Bakersfield. Now there are no real freeways to do this on and the trucks and busses and taxis will cut right in front of you and stop.
At one stop for directions a very nice man told us to follow him and he did take us in the right direction and after that we were on our way out of the city.
Tonight we are again at a water park which has spaces for RV’s but the electricity is off and the water does not come on very strong. But we are safe in an enclosed compound with a guard and a shotgun looking after us. Bev is very thankful.
Tomorrow we will go towards Esquintia (west) and then north towards Tapachula where we will cross our last difficult border into Mexico. If that one goes well we are home free.

2009-12-22T18:50:00.001-08:00

Zunzal, El Salvador to Ahuachapan, El Salvador
December 16, 2009

Surf at Zunzal
Waterpark
Wood in the RV
Cliff
Sorry, wood in the rv again

Today we did not travel far or for so long. We arrived at our destination a water park just outside Ahuachapan, El Salvador just around noon time. We took the Hwy CA 2 along the coast to San Julian and it was a wonderful drive and they even have lookout point here in El Salvador for viewing the coastline and the mountains.
Bev was a little concerned when we stopped at one of the viewpoints and there was a tour
?{s of Canadians there with two armed guards to protect a bus of about 20 people. Ah well the adventure continues and we are either intrepid, skilled or just fools.
Here the mountains and the deltas were not too steep and we managed quite fine. We also managed the five tunnels along this route well. Clearance for the RV was no problem but these are really dark tunnels and even with the bright lights on trying to see the side walls of the tunnels was very difficult. Thankfully there were no oncoming cars and so I really straddled the center line of the tunnels. Then we turned east towards Sonsonate and inland hoping to catch the Ruta de las Flores which is quite a beautiful drive into the mountains among the coffee fincas that are here.
Sonosate seems to be a furniture making area and there are lots of shops that line the road all building furniture mostly out of Laurel wood. Quite beautiful with lots of hand carving and natural finish. Again the wood is a hardwood with multicolored grains in the finished product. It’s just too bad there is no way that these small shops are equipped to ship the products north to us in Mexico.
After lots of “Donde esta” we were finally out of Sonosate and into the Ruta de las Flores and let me tell you we were into the mountains again.
These are 6-8% grades with uphill from the ocean all the way. We had to stop twice to let the transmission cool down along the way.
It was decided that we are now about 10- 20 miles from the border and at 12:00 noon we did not want to cross the border which may take 2-3 hours and then have to find a place to stay. So here we are in a park with a waterfall and public pools again.
It seems that this is the area where all of the women of the local area come to wash their clothes. Below the pools are long lines of wash tubs that are used by the community as a sort of communal laundromat.

2009-12-22T18:44:00.000-08:00

Zunzal Beach, El Salvador
December 15, 2009

Zunzal road
Sunset at Zunzal beach
River crossing
Oxcart and coffee

Well I bought the piece of Bolador wood from Oscar and we cut it into three pieces and loaded it and the Guanacaste wood into the RV. Now the floor of the RV looks like a lumber yard but if I can get this home it will make a wonderful dinning room table and desks for the Mexico house. You just never know as Forest Gump said “what you will find inside a box of chocolates”.
Now if any of you ever get a chance to visit El Salvador I would highly recommend that you stay at Bocca Sunzan as Oscar has done one outstanding job of designing a resort that has everything and more in terms of its features and atmosphere. His rooms are theme rooms much like the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo and the attention to the details he has incorporated into them such as the lights made of seashells or wine bottles, or the sinks which have waterfalls for the water spout are truly unique one of a kind articles. He also has made the pool areas a wonderland of forest, nature and design.
Enough said and we will be leaving this Shangri La tomorrow for a new adventure. Stay tuned as we are to go thru four tunnels on the next leg of this journey and that may not happen if the tunnels are not high enough. Then onto the Ruete de las Flores or the Hwy of the Flowers. So, you see the journey like life just keeps going on and on.
I hope that all is well on the home front and we will again enjoy dinner out tonight. Just too hot I tell Bev to cook indoors here. But it has been cooling off and if we are in the mountains tomorrow we will try something different.
For now it is time to read under the palapa by the beach, watch the semi naked women on the beach and have a cervesa possibly and enjoy another sundset made by God. As you know Dr. E only God can make a sunset. So to you toiling in the vineyards to save the world from going blind I say “Good luck to you as luck is a greater gift given to you than skill, education or knowledge”.

2009-12-22T18:37:00.000-08:00

El Zunzal, El Salvador
December 14, 2009

These pictures may be out of order with the blog.
Campsite at Zunaal
Guanacaste wood search
One of the five tunnels on the way
Oscar at Zunzal

We did not leave the beach area hear as it was nice to relax, for the day and to just wade in the surf and relax and go to dinner on the beach, and relax and not do anything and relax. Did I say that we relaxed here.
I also met Oscar who owns this complex and the really neat hotel, restaurant and bar next to this one. He lived in Glendale for about 20 years growing up while the war was going on down here. When I asked him why he went to Glendale he said something like to save his life.
Oscar is just now building the place we are at and the pool here and Jacuzzi are not yet completed but they are working hard and I would have to say that considering they just started last May they should finish in about another 3-4 months maximum. It will be a really neat facility with pools, waterfalls and pathways around gardens and trees. They are now just finishing the juice and regular bars and cabinetry and putting the finishing touches on the palapas and bar benches. They really know how to work with wood here and it shows in the final product. Which brought me to ask Oscar how I could find a large piece of wood for a table. Well he might have one or he would take me to a lumber yard where he buys his wood and possibly they might have what I wanted.
So off I went with him on his morning errands and we stopped by his construction yard and I saw what I thought would work really nicely. We will have to cut it in tow pieces to fit in the RV but he still has not told me how much it would cost. It is a really nice piece of wood that I believe he called Tulip wood. So tomorrow I will find out the cost hopefully and we can buy it and get it into the RV.
In the meantime we have the beach and the sun and the surf and great food at the local restaurants.
I should have said that this area is considered some of the best surfing in the world with people coming from the US, Europe and Brazil to surf here. The waves right off of our area are consistently 6-8 foot swells that just roll in forever. There are larger swells at the point not 300 yards to the south of where we are. So no wonder they all come here to surf. You have a little harder time with just swimming or being in the surf as the waves are just a little too big and too strong.

2009-12-22T18:29:00.000-08:00

La Union, El Salvador to Zunzal Beach, El Salvador
December 14, 2009

Honduran mountains
Mountain road
Oxen cultivating coffee
Sugar cane drying on teh road

Well we left La Union and the Comfort Inn for the north and a pleasant ride along CA Hwy 2 which was to follow the coastline. On the way the real adventure started. As you know Scruffy the canine wonder and I are always on the lookout for adventure. Bev could do with less adventure in her life but goes along with us. Along the way we did find a small lumber yard and stopped to see what they had. Well $33.00 later we had ourselves three nice pieces of Guanacaste wood inside the RV. Don’t ask me where they are but we are bringing them home with us. They should make nice desk tops as they are about 6 feet long and about 26” wide. But, unfortunately we could not get one thick enough to build a really good dining room table out of.
We needed gas and to get groceries and it was Saturday but going thru Zacatecoluca we saw lots of street vendors and stalls full of fruits and vegetables that looked really great but with the RV there was just no place to park. Finally down the road in Taipa I think we did spot a Mercado that had most of what we needed but their fruits etc were not nearly the quality of those in the street stalls that we had seen.
Next it was time for gas and as this is an area that abounds with Playas or beaches I asked if we were on the right road (remember the signs are not always as good as you would like) to Playa San Diego. The attendant said no we were on the ancient or old road but just to go back 1 block turn right and then right again in two blocks and we would be on the new road. Then there was a big discussion with he and a taxi driver that the RV was too big and the bridge was not tall enough I thought to allow the RV to go over it.
Well if that was the case I thought we would get to the bridge and just have to turn around and come back and go to one of the other beaches along the way. So off we went. Well the bridge was not to short for the RV as there was no bridge. Yessssireee, we got there and the bridge had been wiped out by a hurricane and therefore no bridge. But these little kids kept waving me forward and then onto a verrrry, verrry narrrrrow side street and down another narrower area until we were at the river. Now across the river is a big sugar cane truck waiting to come my way and there is no turning back so we forded the river. Yes you heard that right folks we forded the river with Big Tiger and then went up the bank on the other side with Bev saying all the way “I DON’T THINK WE SHOULD DO THIS!!!!! I DON’T THINK WE SHOULD DO THIS!” Well we did it and survived.
There was only one other bridge that we had some trouble with but what are skid bars on the back of an RV for if not to skid on when the bridge ramp is somewhat eroded and sunken. I later learned that the last hurricane here wiped out some 16 bridges. So we only have to find the other 15 of them before we leave the country. Next it was on to Playa del San Diego. Leaving the highway we stopped a pickup truck and asked what was at the beach and they told us nothing much was there but that there was a much better beach down the road and that they were going there and just ro follow them. Well no problema we can do that. So off we go on another hayride adventure.
They go down a narrow and I mean NARROW cobblestone road turnoff in about 10 miles with cars only able to pass by each other at certain places. Now we are at the end of the road and the only place we can get into says no we can not stay there but must go back two places and they may take us. Ah the joys of backing up in such a situation are just what makes you feel the adrenalin pour into your system.
Then we had to ask if they would allow us to park in the lot and they said sure so they opened the gate which allowed me about 3 inches on either side to get thru. Now someone has to come with a pole to lift up the 220 main electrical line going across the front of the property so I can fit under it. You just hope you don’t get electrocuted. Now we are in and have to thread our way thru and between palm tree stumps to find a place to park. But the place is great, and we are under the palm trees in the grass and can hear the Pacific Ocean at our virtual doorstep.

2009-12-12T17:41:00.000-08:00

Somoto, Nicaragua to La Union, El Salvador
December 12, 2009

Roads and Mountains in Honduras
Oxen and tobacco growing
Cows on the road
Coffee drying and being sacked
More mtns and roads

Well to day was another of those border crossing days and you all kow how well we here on the TRIP like border crossing days. We started from Somoto Nicaragua and just about 20 miles or less down the road was the border into Honduras. This one went quite well and we were out of Nicaragua and into Honduras in less than one hour I think.
The trip across the western part of Honduras was uneventful and we only had to ask for directions about 5-10 times as we had been on this road before. Remember we only have the Lonely Planet Book as a map for this country. About a ½ page map in a 3x5 book for the whole country. But it was only about a 125 mile drive and at about 11:30 we were at the border to El Salvador. With border helpers it took about 30-45 minutes to exit Honduras and I thought that this was going to be easy and we could be at La Union by 1:00PM. HA, HA, HA.
The immigration (that’s your passports only) went really smoothly and then the customs (that’s the vehicles went really badly. You see we had been in El Salvador just over one month ago and turned in our Aduana papers (the RV and Motorscooter) when leaving the country. Well they are not supposed to issue you new papers but every 3 months so you are here two months early. What to do? Well the officer said he would try to help us and then of course there was lunch and then more paperwork and move your vehicle three different times and then we need more copies of these documents and well you now get the picture. So after about 3 hours we had our customs papers and were entered into El Salvador. And to think I could have bypassed this country entirely. Well I hope that it will be worth it.
It was worth it to Bev and I to get thru Honduras again in one day. It was the country we both had some trepidation about visiting. But now it is behind us.
It was thankfully only a short 25-30 mile drive to the Comfort Inn where we stayed last time we were here. But the price has changed to $20.00 per night and we were charged for the night that we were here last time. Ah, the Central American attitude to customer service and goodwill. But it is safe here and the pool felt good to climb into. Yes we had to do this as the kiddie pool was the only one open to guests as the adult pool was being refilled and was closed. So instead of dinner in the hotel restaurant we opted for dinner in the RV.
Tomorrow we will go along the coast I hope and take a more leisurely drive and stop early for the night. I hope that we can find a Motel with these amenities again as having the pool is really nice.
I will try to post these blogs in the Hotel tonight and get my blog up to date.
Hoe that you are all enjoying where you are at and what you are doing because life is short and fun is and important aspect of life. Get as much fun as you can.

2009-12-12T17:32:00.000-08:00

Esteli to Somoto, Nicaragua
December 11, 2009

Danielo
Part of his silver collection
Covered patio in the hotel
Bev in the Somoto park
Hotel campsite in Somoto

Well today was another of those surprise days that occur when you are traveling. Today it was a good surprise. We did not drive very far as I wanted to cross into Honduras and be across the country in one day. So we only traveled about 75 miles just to get as close to the border and have a place for the night as possible. At first it looked as if there was no place to stay but then I spotted a motel with an entrance I thought that we could get into.
Well the cost of a room was $20.00 including parking and the cost to just park was $20.00 so we took the room to just use the shower in the morning. I remarked to the receptionist that the tables that were in the courtyard were really nice Guanacaste wood and she said that the owner of the hotel was at his other hotel but that he might have others.
Shortly thereafter while relaxing in the hammock Danilo Morazin the owner of the hotel arrived and introduced himself. A wonderful man who lived for 10 years in Texas during the civil war here and had lots to show us. His monkeys that he keeps for pets (both white faced and others), his gardens and patios and his collections. These included Bavarian crystal, German and Swiss silver antiques and other antiques, pottery and woven baskets and sculptures that were really unique to this and other Central American countries. Then he drove Bev and I around town showing us the various sights.
We saw the Municipal Building donated by Madrid Spain, the new complex for battered women, the new gymnasium complex being built, the University of Nicaragua extension here that was in a former Somosa jail and army barracks. He showed us his other hotel where he hosts groups from all over the world who come here to help the people of Somoto. In January 60 physicians and helpers from Merced, CA are coming to do free surgeries, and others are coming in March from Spain to do cultural work. Really an interesting man and a wonderful tour. I was just sorry that the wood he had did not fit what I needed for a dining room table. We did buy some souvenirs though and I will tell you that the prices here in Nicaragua are better than any other place we have been to. You can only carry so much stuff though even in an RV.
Well today we relaxed, strolled the town and tonight it is dinner Nico food at a little restarante that Danilo showed us. Just a few blocks walk from here.
I should also say that he told us that other than Managua his feeling was that Nicaragua was now very safe. He was sorry to here that we had problems with the police and his reaction was that we should have gotten their badge numbers and reported them. Apparently now there is quite a crackdown on this in Nicaragua and he said they had just jailed two former policemen for doing just what had happened to me. No wonder the police were so adamant when I wanted to take their picture.

2009-12-12T17:24:00.000-08:00

Maps and journeys
San Jorge, Nicaragua to Esteli, Nicaragua
December 10, 2009

Rice Fields
Animal transportation
Human transportation
Police
Hotel California in Saan Jorge, Nicaragua

I was wrong in yesterday’s blog we really were in Sand Jorge and not San Blas, Nicaragua. This was a nice campsite and we really enjoyed our night there. However, being on the coast it was hot an humid and I do mean HUMID. Hard to sleep with no A/C and the humidity is 85% and the temperature the same. It is the town where they take the ferry boat over to the island which has two volcanoes on it in Lago de Nicaragua.
Today’s drive was long in hours driven and short in distance covered. This is because we were lost again many times and many times we had to stop and ask for directions (about 20-30 times today and we backtracked 5-6 times). Now you might ask how could two intelligent people be lost so often. Can’t they read a map. Well the answer is if you are traveling to Central America bring all the maps you will need for every country because you can not for the life of me buy a map of the country you are in here. I have tried large supermarkets, gas stations, tourist shops, bookstores or here they are really stationary stores and yes folks there are no maps. When we left California we got maps from AAA but they would only go down as far as El Salvador. Mexico has maps but only of Mexico. I was able to get a map of Costa Rica I do not know where from and we had a map given to us of Belize. That leaves no map for Nicaragua and Honduras.
Now signs of any nature are a bit of a problem here as the town you want to go to is not on the sign and the map you have (Budget Rental Car Map) is just about useless, and the Lonely Planet Book just about the same.
So off we go and turn around and turn around and turn around and “do you know the way to blank” (“donde esta blank”) or “is this the road to blank “ “esta la camino a blank”. Life on the road can be so much fun.
We did find a sawmill and wood fabrication plant today that can ship to Mexico or the US and that made me very happy. We even got some wood samples and e-mail and web site info. The owner was very helpful and his English was great (Family from Denmark) and he said just to e-mail him with what I wanted. So some things really turned out well for us today.
Tonight we are in Esteli on the Pan Am Hwy that will take us home eventually. We are in the same hotel parking lot (12 foot walls and a solid steel gate that we stayed at on the way down. So we are snug as a bug in a rug.
We did have 4 other stops today for the police. I must say the traffic police in Nicaragua have to be the most corrupt of any country we have been in. The first on stopped me and I was going about 20mph and wanted to write me a ticket and took my driver’s license (you know the story from last time in Nicaragua you don’t get it back till you pay him) and I then brought out my camera and wanted a picture of him. Well that really set him off and finally I got my license back and just be on your way fellow (no ticket). The next one had his radar gun out but I was going at least 20 mph under the speed limit and so they just waved me on as there was a line of ten cars behind me and so it would have meant pulling them all over. The last one wanted my license again and I got out my camera again when he was writing me up and then his Spanish went 100 mph and photos were prohibited. No hablo espanol but I have a great picture of you so it was be on your way gringo and a few other words but no bribe was paid.
For those of you planning on coming to Central America and driving here there are a few simple things to do. One, never pull over to the side of the road for the traffic police. This blocks traffic and when they tell you that you must merely say that it is to dangerous to do so the side of the road scares me in a big RV and the area is much to dangerous. Secondly, make at least two copies in color of your driver’s license and have them laminated. That way if they keep it there is no problem if you must cross the next border and need it to register your vehicle. Lastly carry a camera hand in the front seat for a picture of the offending gendarme.
Well all is well now and we are going to the hotel for dinner.

2009-12-09T16:51:00.000-08:00

Playa del Coco, Costa Rica to San Jorge, Nicaragua
December 9, 2009

Horse cart in Nicaragua (typical)
Shawn and Isa
Campsite at Hotel California San Jorge
Typical pasture scene in Guanacosta Costa Rica
We left Playa del Coco this morning after a great dinner at Mariscos Milanese last night. It was further than walking distance permitted so we took a taxi. If you remember the owner helped me with the generator. A stop off in Liberia to try to find a map of Nicaragua (no such luck) and another stop off at Citi Bank to try to cash a check (no such luck after 30 minutes of waiting) . Even our Citi Bank Master Card was no good in Costa Rica it must be Visa. Well when I get back to the US I may have to change my plans for banking if I am going to travel to other foreign countries. I went to Citi Bank because they are an international bank (so I thought), but they operate more like national banks in with just an international name.
Getting thru customs and immigration was again a two hour process and lots of running between buildings. But, we have learned to be patient and so it went the way of all our border crossings in Central America. Wait in line lots of papers to stamp, wait in another line, stamp more papers and fill out more forms. Now you are out of one country. Same thing to enter the next country.
We offered a ride to two people at the border and brought them to San Blas. One Shawn from Minniapolis and the Isa other from Colon, Germany.
We drove only about 135 miles today but with the borders and stops we took from 8:00 AM till 4:00 PM to do this. It did not help getting lost several times also. What do you think of this small narrow road Bev, I think this cow trail will be ok. No don’t worry about the horse drawn carts on the road. I think that this is doable.
Finally we are in the Hotel California parking area which is really a large grass covered field with lots of trees and really very pretty. We should have the place all to ourselves I think and it is very quiet. Tomorrow I will check on moving further north and we may try to stay near the border area with Honduras. This is my least favorite border to cross and so I want to leave a whole day to do it in.
Well all is well, the generator is working fine now, the microwave is working fine now and the repair on the water tank storage area is doing fine. Life is GOOD!

2009-12-09T16:42:00.000-08:00

Cataratas de Cortes to Playa del Coco
December 8, 2009

In the water at the falls
Coco Beach boat
Cruise Sailboat at Coco Beach
Campsite on the water

Well today was another one of those memorable RV experience days. We left our wonderful waterfall park and headed to Playa del Coco where I was going to take Bev out for another of her great seafood dinners. We stopped in Liberia at the Mega store just to resupply before heading the last 20-25 miles to the beach and our spot on the ocean harbor. Coming out of the store Bev told me that the rear passenger side of the coach looked askew. Sure enough the bottom panel that held the water tanks up had broken away from its supports and was hanging down.
Well what to do? This is something that needed an immediate fix. So off to the first mechanico across the street. Well they could not fix this but sent us to another place around the corner and down a very potholed road (all the while I am hoping it will hold. They saw the problem but were too busy to fix it and they were the only place to do it I felt in Liberia. So would you loan me the tools to fix it myself? Sure! So 1 ½ to 2 hours later the fix was done and they would not charge me anything so it was it was two cold cokes a hand shake and a very sincere gracias.
On to Playa del Coco and then the generator which had been giving me problems the last few days would not start again. There was a man on the beach whom we had met the last time we were here and he said “no problemo, I have a friend who is a great mechanico and he can fix this”. Sure enough a person wrode up on his motorcycle (Mike ) and he was a great mechanic whose father was a mechanic for the US Army. He lived here since the age of one year and spoke great English and really knew what he was doing. Probably the spark plug he said but maybe not but that is where we should start. So off he went to get a spark plug and came back about 20 minutes later. We installed (he installed ) the new spark plug and I had a spare air filter which we installed and it started up in short service. It has been running fine now under load for about 15 minutes and all seems well.
So if you have an Onan generator out there you need to change the spark plugs every 100 hours. Mine had never been changed. Again Mike did not want to accept anything for his labor but I insisted on a propina for him. We will be eating at his restaurant this evening to also repay him.
Well now we are on the beach again and all is well with the world and Bev can use her hair dryer in the morning and the microwave tonight and I can relax with a glass of vino to watch the ocean and the people on the beach. I hope that all of your problems out there in the world are as easily handled as ours have been this last week (microwave, generator, storage area for the RV, etc). You see we just have to roll with the punches and accept that all of our life has a little of the ying and the yang in it. THIS IS REALLY A GORGEOUS BEACH AND SCENIC VIEW. Wish you all were here and glad that I am.

2009-12-09T16:30:00.000-08:00

Cataratas de Cortes
December 8, 2009

Waterfall
In the water at the base of the falls
Campsite
Downriver from the falls
We went the night here in the park and it was just great. The drive to the park is down a 3-4 Km dirt road and you must pay a fee at the gate which is a voluntary amount. I gave her about $8.00 US. Then you enter the park and go another 1 Km to the parking area. Really just a dirt lot.
After settling in we hiked down to the waterfall. Really spectacular with the water cascading over the cliff and down into a pool area of about 200 feet across. We were there and swimming in the pool for about 2-3 hours and it was great. The water was refreshing and not cold as waterfalls are in the north.
And afterwards, a cold coconut to drink from the vendor in the parking lot.
At night the park is closed at 4:00 PM and so we spent the night here (park opens at 8:00 AM ) and we were all alone in this pristine area with just the sounds of the waterfall and the birds to contend with. It does not get any better than this.

2009-12-09T16:15:00.000-08:00

Arenal to Cataratas de Cotes
December 8, 2009

Swiss Chalet
Lake Arenal
German Bakery
The road into the waterfall

Yesterday it was time to leave Arenal and head north and west. The original plan was to backtrack to La Fortuna and then take Hwy 4 to Upala and then west on Hwy 6 to south of Bagales. Well at the end of the dirt road with all of its potholes leading into the park was a sort of police station (one man police station) and I asked how the road was around the lake. He told me “no probema para la camino” . Well on the map it looked like less that a dirt road and 4 years ago we were told that if you did not have 4 wheel drive it was not a road to take. But what the heck we are adventurers and what could we loose. So off we went.
Sometimes things turn out right. The road was paved all the way although very narrow. But almost not traffic so that did not present too much of a problem. It snaked up and down the mountainsides next to the lake and we were in the rain forest. Here you see trees growing 150 or so feet high with thick vegetation of ferns and climbing vines that cover the lower 50 feet of the forest so thickly that you can not see more than 6 inches into the undergrowth. Then every so often you are given a break in the forest on the driver’s side of Lake Arenal which is huge and took us some three hours to go half way around. Just amazing the views and the scenery. Worth every minute of the serendipity of the drive and possibly one of the most scenic drives we have ever taken.
Another surprise of the trip was to stop at a German bakery on the ride and have apple strudel and coffee. Yes there are real Swiss chalets in this country and people whose ancestors came here from Germany and Switzerland in the 1800’s and settled. Whole villages of them and they still speak German as well as Spanish and English.
We left the lake at Tilaran and continued west to Canas where we met up with the Central American Hwy 1. Now it was north to just past Bagales where we again left the road for Cataratas de Cortes (waterfall of Cortes).

2009-12-09T15:59:00.001-08:00

December 8, 2009
Arenal

Typical bridge in the Arenal area
Hiking on the lava flow
Lava flow trail rocks
Wide trail leading to the lava flow

Last night we went to the Observation Lodge and had dinner overlooking the volcano. Unfortunately, we could not see the eruptions because of the cloud cover over the volcano. But it was a delightful dinner and the steak was great. It’s nice to eat out every once in awhile.
Well we spent one day at Arenal just relaxing and sightseeing. First a hike up onto the lava flow from 1968 and it was quite a hike to get to the top of the flow. It extends down from the volcano about 1 ½ miles I would guess and is about 200-300 feet high. Vegetation covers this whole area as it has been 40+ years since the eruption and it only takes about 8 years for the lava to cool enough for the plant life to begin.
We tried to go to the hot springs at Tabacon but my memory is either not as good as it was or the public pools are no longer where they were before.
So that was a bust but we did go into La Fortuna and had a pizza. Yes it was time for a pizza. I tried to get some quick start there but it was Sunday and the places were all closed (that is the one place that had it).
So after waiting out a rather quick rain storm (30-40 minutes) we were back on the road to Arenal. Rain storms here come often and quickly. This is a rain forest area and they get 150 inches of rain every year.
It was relaxing just to sit and read when we got back and at night we are the only people in the park (the gate shuts at 8:00 PM and then we are all alone. The only sounds you hear are the volcano eruptions every so often. They sound similar to a jet plane engine.

2009-12-09T15:43:00.000-08:00

December 5, 2009
San Antonio de Belen to Arenal
Lodge Dinner
Campsite in Parke Arenal
Volcano Arenal
Lake Arenal

Well today’s drive was yet another adventure. Why oh why do we have so many adventures in our lives. It was to be just a short drive (under 125 miles I think) and the road was to be mostly straight from the map I was reading. Well we left the Alajuela area and proceeded to the turnoff from the Pan Am Hwy at San Ramon to go to La Fortuna on Hwy 142. Not before buying out a whole store of their pottery etc in Naranio. But Bev was pleased and I was pleased that she was pleased.
What looked like a fairly straight road on the map turned out to be one sharp turr after another on a very narrow two lane road. Sort of brings back memories of Baja Mexico.
Well on the way we knocked the passenger mirror on a post on the side of the road and although we have a temporary fix the housing was still cracked. No final repair on it until California I’m afraid. But I do still have as of yet a side view mirror on that side.
It was up and down and around for about 5 hours to complete the trip of 125 miles and when you can only see 25% of the turn in front of you thru the front window of an RV you know it is slow going.
We did stop to buy some local cheese at a stand beside the road. This was great dairy cow area. Next it was thru the Cloud Forest. Now, you have a total canopy above you and the forest seems to grow everywhere. Lots of zip line adventure tours her in the rain forest. Until we arrived at Arenal it was sunny but now it is raining.
I should mention that the road building in Costa Rica the roads are well paved and two lane narrow but the bridges it seems were all built in the early 1900’s. So rather than build a new wider bridge they are kept one lane. You have a CEDRA or CEDA on one lane approaching the bridge and that lane must yield to the oncoming traffic. Now some of these bridges are really long with jungle canopy one either side so it is not always possible to see the oncoming traffic. Makes for an interesting trip across the bridge in an RV.
We were going to have a relaxing day in the hot springs near the volcano but could not get a parking space there. I did unhook little TT so maybe we will go over there tomorrow. Now we are in the parking lot of the Arenal National Park. This is an active volcano but does not have any sulphur coming out of it. So vegetation grows immediately after the lava cools (about 8 years). This is a really neat campsite but no hookups which we had gotten use to for the last 10 days.
Tonight we are going to try to go to the Observation Lodge for dinner and see if the cloud cover goes away enough to see the volcano erupt.
The last major eruption was in 1968 when the town of Arenal was completely destroyed and everything around it, 87 people died. Since then there have been two major lava flows in 1992 and 1997. Now there is a large lake where the town and its airport were. Just a vast jungle now over the lava flow which was once homes and a town center. So sleep well tonight Lorne and think of that.
Ah well if life were not an adventure would we really want to be here?

San Antonio de Belen

2009-12-04T17:54:00.000-08:00

San Antonio de Belen
December 4, 2009

Bananas growing in the RV park
The farmers market
Aviary in the RV park some of the birds
Bev at a local fruit and vegetable market

We are ready to go tomorrow and this is the furthest south we will come on our journey. Taking the RV to Panama is just too much trouble and to go by bus is a 16 hour journey from the border so it was decided that Panama can wait for another time.
We have enjoyed our stay here in Belen and San Jose and especially visiting with Olinda and her family. We missed out going to Punta Arenas as I had the time mixed up and we should have left at 4:30 AM and I thought we were leaving at 4:30 PM. Ah well that is the way it goes. But all in all this has been a wonderful place to visit.
We went to the open air farmers market today and got the laundry done. All those necessary things to do and yet they are a part of life that needs doing. The farmers market was great with large tables set out with fruits and vegetables and all of the other things including cheese and meats and eggs, etc. This is only held on Friday afternoon and evening here and it is right next to the park. So mosey on over we did and had a great hours time with Bev squeezing and fondling all of the fruits and vegetables.
We had a small upset today, the microwave stopped working in the RV. It seems that this is the year of the microwaves going south on us. If you may recall the microwave in our home in Mexico stopped just before we left. Well that one cost me $20.00 to repair and I was really fortunate that there was a small repair shop just two blocks from the RV park. I took it in at about 10:00 AM and he told me they would have it fixed by 2:00 pm. Oh, yah like I think that that is going to happen. In the US come back in a week. Maybe they would find the problem by 2:00 pm and then need to order the parts and then fix it in a week! That would sound more like it. Well at 1:00 PM they called the RV park to say it would be $22,000.00 colones to fix and would be ready in a few minutes. There was a short and one of the parts needed to be replaced. Now, $22,000.00 colones may seem like a lot but it is really less than $40.00 US. Not bad and great service. He showed me the part, it looked like a sort of large capacitor. Well it works now.
Then it was time to go get the laundry and it was done all washed, dried and folded and guess what it was about $12,000.00 colones. So you see a microwave is worth about 2 times what having your laundry done is. To stay clean is ½ the cost of making dinner. It’s that simple!
Tomorrow we go to Arenal which is to the north and is the volcano area. Spectacular to see at night with all of the red lava cascading down the side of the volcano. There are also hot spring there which I am sure we will want to visit.
So for now to all of you wanderers and wantabe travelers take care and watch the road.

2009-12-01T17:04:00.001-08:00

San Jose, Costa Rica
December 1, 2009

Cathedral
Park
National theater
Street scene
Well here it is December already. Gee, the time is really flying bye and we have just not even finished the first half of the journey. Well today we played tourists and took the bus to San Jose. Although this is not far from where we are staying I did not want to take TT into the city as the traffic is horrendous. The bus stop was less than 1 block from the RV park and it took us right downtown and that was a far less stressful way to go. Busses here go about every 20 minutes and we waited under 10 minutes for our bus. On the way back it was less than 5 minutes.
San Jose is the capital of Costa Rica and the largest city here. Things are really busy in the city but they have done a really great job here with parks all over the city so that you are never more than 1 or 2 blocks it seems from a lovely park with fountains and trees and flowers. We stopped first at the Parke Centeral and there just watched people, visited the cathedral on one side of the park. Then on to the Park de Cultura where the the national Theatre is located. I tried to get a picture of the inside of it but was unable to get past the guards. I did later find out that a ticket to one of the shows is only about $6.00 so we may go there if there is time. But time is quickly passing by.
Below the Park de Cultura is the Museo de Ore or Gold Museum. Se had seen this the last time we were here so we skipped that one and also the National Museum.
On to the Museo de Jade or Jade Museum which is located in the National Insurance Building. From the early 1900’s the National Insurance Co. has been collecting pre Columbian jade and other rare antiquities and has a giant collection of them in this building. The displays are great with Spanish and English captions and all very well done. We had missed this on our last trip as it was closed the day we came to San Jose. Well worth seeing.
Next it was on to some lunch and then some tourist shopping and more sightseeing. The really nice thing about San Jose is that many of the streets are pedestrian streets and you do not have to worry about vehicles. On other streets however the sidewalks are narrow and vendors spill over into the street and cars and trucks and buses are everywhere. After all of that it was time to go back to the RV and rest and relax. Tomorrow I think will be a nothing day and then on to Punta Arenas the next day.

2009-12-01T16:56:00.000-08:00

November 30, 2009
Looking for Wood
Wood in the mill
Pre Columbian gold
Pre Columbian Pottery
A telephone sitting stool and table

Well today I got up very early (5:30) so that I could be at Olinda’s house to meet Luz and her husband and they took me to two different lumber mills here in Costa Rica. My goodness you sure can get confused in a hurry when you look at all of the varieties of wood that are available. It just boggles you mind after awhile. I did take pictures though and will make a decision when I can get a better idea of shipping possibilities and what is available in southern Mexico. The wood here is Teca Cinisero, Almendro del Rio, Guanacosta, Laurel, and Cedros. I do like the Coco Bola from Mexico also.
Last night we had dinner in a wonderful seafood restaurant with Olinda and her family. It was a great time and we really enjoyed ourselves. Coming home on TT was also an experience that Bev does not wish to repeat she says. Some people!
And today I again found my way on TT to Alajuela and back without incident.
Thursday we are going to Puenta Arenas. Luz found us a package trip with bus and meals and hotel so we will spend a day there. Another trip to Alajuela on TT but it has been a joy to see that my little scooter was worth taking with us.
It’s raining this afternoon so not much to do. We did have the RV serviced although it was not really time to do so. I had them change the oil and filter and the transmission fluid. I was a little concerned with all of the mountain driving we have done so this is just preventative medicine.
Well time to relax and read some and then get the campsite for another 4-5 days.

2009-11-29T07:46:00.000-08:00

November 28, 2009
Sarchi and Grecia
We had a really nice day today looking at furniture in the towns of Sarchi and Grecia which are about 20 miles away from where we are staying. This meant the longest trip that we have had on TT the scooter. Well even on the autopista going much slower than the rest of the traffic we did just fine. Bev just held on for dear life. Then the up and down of the mountains as we went up the hill to Grecia.
These two small communities make up most of the furniture in Costa Rica and there are literally hundreds of small furniture makers here. You can buy from what they have or they will make it custom for you. We stopped and looked till we were ready to drop.
Unfortunately the styles that they had there in the shops were not really the style that we were looking for, but we did get some cards and will look some more but now we know where we can have it custom made and shipped to us.
There are several other shipping possibilities that we are looking into and may even wait till our return to Mexico to make a final decision. For now it is just a process of elimination for all of the pieces.
The return trip was less stressful as I did not take the autopista but the back roads that wind up and down the mountains and the views of the coffee, sugar cane and other fields was really great. One nice thing is that Costa Rican drivers tend not to push you when you are going slow. They do use their horns much more than in the US though.
Here also they call their speed bumps muertes (which are mostly like the half round steel balls that we see in parking lots). Sort of means little death.
We returned tired this afternoon but we did purchase one small table which we will try to find a place for in the RV till we get home.
Lots of different wood to choose from though. Guanacasta, Laurel, Rosewood, Cedros and a very hard type of Ash.
Ah well now is time for dinner and a break. Last night was Chinese out. Really nice little place and on the way we came on a huge one day farmers market. Dozens of stalls just set up for Fridays only with eggs, fresh fruit and vegetables (many of which we have never heard of), chicken, beef and baked goods. I got some tortillas (real thick and corn) that they fill with cheese and you heat them and eat them for breakfast.

2009-11-27T15:07:00.001-08:00

November 27, 2009
In San Antonio de Belen

Today we went to Alajuela first to do some banking (needed to change some dollars into collones). Well that was certainly and interesting experience. The line outside the band was about 20 feet long and they security check you with a wand just like the airports to get in. Then take a number from the computer similar to the DMV in California. There must have been over a hundred people in there. Next overhead screens both visually give the next number called and an electronic voice also calls it out. Then after about 40 minutes my number was called and I could change some money. They really should have more banks.
After that we went by the central park and the central mercando but did not stop. It was on to Olinda’s house and see if she was home. Well I must congratulate myself because even after all this time I still knew the way there. She was not home when we arrived and we were just about to leave when she pulled up in a friend’s car. She was so delighted to see us and we also. We must come in and sit down and she had to make us one of her famous refrescas (blended drink with fresh fruit, etc). Then she tried I thought to call her daughter Luz but I thought that she could not get her on the telephone.
After some time I said that we had to go as it was almost 12:00 and did not want to impose lunch on Olinda. Well no we should not go and my Spanish heard that Luz would be there at 2:00 pm and so I said that we would return at 1:30 and meet her then.
Wrong again Luz was coming then and we were to go to her house and see it and visit and have lunch there. Well it was a grand ride up to Luz’s new home and what a lovely view from the top of a hill looking over a parque (these are more like our national parks and more rural). We had a great lunch and it was really nice to visit with the family that we had come to know so well when we were taking Spanish here in Costa Rica so many years ago. Sunday evening we will be taking the family to a restarante for dinner. That should be great as one of the kids is graduating Sunday. Here the school year goes from the end of January to end of November. End of November and December and part of January off but only two weeks vacation in July and August.
After leaving we drove back to the RV where we are now and will try to call the kids tonight. I must say that Tiny Tigre has served us well but driving on the freeway in Costa Rica was not what it was meant to do. I did get a message that the pink slip for the Scooter has been sent by DHL and should arrive Monday.

2009-11-26T16:53:00.000-08:00

Playa Del Coco to San Antonio de Belen
November 26, 2009

Well Happy Thanksgiving everyone. Today we drove from the Pacific Ocean to close to the airport near the capital of Costa Rica, the city of San Jose. It was lots of up and down and around mountains with a two lane road and lots of trucks that really slowed us down. Five hours to drive about 150 miles and that was with two stops to let the transmission cool down. When we drive so slowly up long hills (4-5 miles long) it tends to overheat the transmission. I think that I may have the fluid changed here before we go home.
This will probably be the furthest south that we drive. If we go to Panama it will probably be by bus.
Last night was our night to splurge on what Bev said was the best seafood dinner she has had all year. It was a nice bistro on the second floor balcony overlooking the street in Playa Del Coco. She had the seafood platter with calamari, crabs, shrimp, and fish and mussels in a white wine sauce with vegetables and rice and was really great. I had the catch of the day in there macadamia nut sauce and we both had a Caesar salad and then coffee (really strong coffee) for dessert.
Today we spent some time shopping for souvenirs and for furniture and we will see if we can get it shipped to Mexico or the US.
Tonight we are in our first RV park in a lonnnnnng time. It is nice to have full hookups once again ant to not have to worry about water or dumping or electrical. Although Playa Del Coco was great being on the beach next to the water we had to conserve our fresh water for showers because we did not have easy access to a fresh water supply. But then there was the ocean right at our doorstep to go dip in when we were too warm.
The next few days will be getting things arranged if we can for buying furniture if it can be shipped back to Mexico or the US and if not we will then look in southern Mexico on the west coast. That and souvenir shopping and seeing Olinda the woman that we stayed with while taking language school so many years ago.

2009-11-26T16:44:00.000-08:00

November 24, 2009
Rivas, Nicaragua to Playa del Coco, Costa Rica

Today’s journey was not a long one in terms of miles but it did feel good to cross the last border that we will do before the return journey when we will cross of them but Belize. I don’t think that we will take the RV to Panama because that will mean crossing that border and then returning and crossing the border again and you simply have no idea how much time it takes to exit one country and enter another with two vehicles (RV and motor scooter) and most of the time they have a real problem with the casa rodello..
But after two border it was only two police checks on the vehicle permit and we were on our way to Playa del Coco.
This is just west of Liberia on the Pacific ocean now and a really beautiful spot. Seems to be that the whole coast of this area is a hangout for expatriates and tourists. I think I see more foreigners here than locals. We are right on the beach with a view of the bay and harbor area. Lots of sailboats and motor cruisers here and lots of tourist restaurants and bars and gift shops. We are not in a campground or hotel tonight as I asked the locals and they said it was quite safe and we also asked permission of the local police whose station is only a hundred feet or so from the RV.
Today is a rest day again and we will try to walk into town and have laundry done and then do some shopping. The woodworking here and pottery is some of the best that we have seen.
Well time for some fun and sitting on the beach.

2009-11-23T08:22:00.000-08:00

Rivas adn the La Mar Lake Resort
November 22, 2009
Sugar cane truck
Banana plantation
Volcano whil driving
Volcano from the pool at the resort
At least I think it is the 22 nd of Nov. Yoou quickly loose a sense of time and date when you are traveling as we are. Days of the week and the date of the month all seem to merge into one. This was especially true after I lost my watch while snorkeling in Cosumel and did not replace it until just a few days ago. In Mexico watches and other items as well as in Belize are very expensive. Guatemala is cheap or about the same as the US.
We have decided to stay at teh resort a day longer to rest and recharge ourselves. Driving all day and border crossings can be a real trial. Tomorrow is the last border crossing on the way down into Costa Rica. Fortunately we are only about 50 miles from teh border so we do not have a long ways to drive but crossing a border can sometimes take all day. I hope that this one goes easily.
Last night we had dinner in the resort restaurant and it was interesting. I had the local fish which they brought to me whole with a great sauce but I must admit I do not enjoy the fish looking at me while I am eating it. Bev had fish filets which was a good choice in a garlic butter. And the local beer Tonal which was really pretty good.
You have to get used to the prices though $423.00 for dinner. But remember that $1US is equal to about $20 Cuerdos(SP?).
It was great to just have a relaxing dinner we did not cook and look out over the lake and pool areas.
We seem to be the only ones in the resort and I was told that this is because people come here during the summer and they do not get many people here at this time of year. It is really beautiful though.
So today is relax by the pool, have lunch in the restaurant, and look at hte info needed to cross into Costa Rica in the morning.
We were able to telephone home in the last two days and it was good to here familiar voices in English. Bev I know is somewhat homesick and needing to talk to and see the grandkids. Ah well we are almost at the midway point of the journey.
Life is good

2009-11-23T08:07:00.000-08:00

November 22, 2009
Esteli to Rivas, Nicaragua

What you see in the pictures are the view from teh resort out at the island volcanoes
Coffee being dried
The Pan American highway
Rice fields
Sugar Cane Fields

Today’s drive was actually very easy. The mountains that we encountered yesterday soon were gone and we were in large flat valleys with a two lane road with a good surface. The constant curves and turns in the mountains were gone and the straight a ways were a pleasant reprieve.
In El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua you also do not have the constant topes or speed bumps or tumules as they are called in each and every hamlet. So you can kind of relax a little more when driving.
The only unpleasant episode was being stopped and having to pay a bribe to the local police for allegedly speeding. If there is one thing I really hate it is corrupt law enforcement which is everywhere here it seems. There was no other way I could see to get my drivers license back so I paid it. When I get to Costa Rica I will have laminated color copies on my license made and just let them keep it.
We drove down the valleys past the city of Granada (the oldest one in Nicaragua and the area seems quite prosperous. Large farms with tobacco (cigar making factories everywhere), sugar cane, rice, bananas, and huge papayas which I had never seen of the trees before. They even had crop dusters at the airports which shows you just how large the farms and ranches are. Even on Sunday large sugar cane trucks passed us.
We have taken a rout off of CA 1 and gone onto CA4 which is called the ruta de volcanos and colonias which is to say the route of the volcanoes and colonial cities or towns. It is quite peaceful driving thru a road with trees arching over the road and all of the grass and trees. You must drive slower as it is not as well maintained as the Pan American Hwy. But certainly, a pretty drive and very colorful. Even people selling furniture and birds beside the hwy.
Today we settled early just south of Rivas which was an important stop for the California gold rush miners heading across the Central American isthmus on their way to the gold fields. This is on the Largo de Nicaragua or Lake Nicaragua which is the largest lake in Central America. We are staying at the La Mar Lake Resort and have electrical hookup which they arranged for us and use of the pool and other facilities. It really is a great view from the restaurant and pool looking out over the lake and the Isla de Ometepi with its volcanoes Madera and Concepcion. The volcanoes have clouds over them from the steam that they are spewing into the air. Tonight we knows we may be able to see some volcanic fire which you do not see during the day. We are planning to go to the restaurant and if it happens it happens.
It is windy here and I did notice wind machines on one of the hillsides. Other than that a dip in the pool was a really refreshing sojourn from the day’s journey.
Well that is all for today but downloading the pictures and taking sweet Beverley to dinner

Pictures of Honduras

2009-11-22T15:01:00.000-08:00

These are some of the photos of Honduras.

One of the many cattle drives we saw on the road.
Ox cart and a way of getting your things to market.
Some of the mountains in Honduras and there were many.
A typical small town

Picture updates

2009-11-22T14:49:00.000-08:00

Pictures from El Salvador.
One is of corn in sacks by the road being readied to be dried on the side of the road and the others ore of the Comfort Inn and Bev's lobster dinner.

2009-11-21T18:56:00.000-08:00

In Memoriam of Those No Longer With Us!

When you leave on an extended adventure such as ours you hope that all will be well with those you left behind and that you love. You want to return home to find it just as you left it. This is not always the case, and I guess that I can now relate how those who are in uniform or whose occupations take them long distances feel when they have sad news from home and know that when you return it will not be the same as when you left.
We had two persons very close to us depart this world recently.
The first Kim Stempler lived with her husband Jeff in the San Diego area. We had known them since they were married and even before that. Kim was a fighter and loved flowers and food and life. She fought a battle that included a kidney transplant and I shall never forget her laughter and good cheer. Fortunately, before we left home we were able to spend some time with she and Jeff in their home. Even with all of her pain she was still able to laugh with us and we shall always remember that.
There is also Mary Fletcher whom I just heard about today. Married to my sister’s husband’s brother John she lived in Windsor, Canada. Last summer we were able to spend a week with Mary and John and visit extensively with them on our trip to see the fall colors. Mary was the kind of person you always felt a kind of comfortableness with and one who had that poise that comes with a person of great dignity. I know that I may not be saying this correctly but Mary was a great lady of great dignity. Also a fighter whose battle with cancer was not an easy one.
To those left behind I will leave you with a poem sent to me by my good friend Bill Locklin who also is no longer with us:

When I am dead, cry for me a little.
Think of me sometimes, but not too much;
It is not good for you, or your wife or your children,
to allow your thoughts to dwell too long on the dead.
Think of me now and again as I was in life.
But not for long.
Leave me in peace, as I shall leave you to in peace.
While you live, let your thoughts be with the living.

Thank you both Kim and Mary for all the memories that you have given to us.

2009-11-21T18:55:00.000-08:00

November 21, 2009
La Union to the Honduras Border and into Esteli, Nicaragua

Well up early in the morning and headed for the Honduras border. Remember that I said that we wanted to cross Honduras in one day. Well the drive was only about 40 Km or 25 miles but then the fun started. We exited El Salvador with no problems just pay the exit fee of $3 each and show the customs papers for the RV and motorcycle.
Next Honduras and we had somehow managed to get a border helper even though I did not want one. These are at every border crossing and want a fee to stand in line and get your paperwork done for you. Well after saying no several times I still had a border assistant.
Well over the bridge and onto the Honduras side for immigration.
Honduras customs wanted not just the vehicle registration which has been fine everywhere else but also pink slips for both. Well guess what the pink slip from the DMV for the motorcycle never arrived before we left from CA, so we do not have it only the bill of sale and the temporary DMV slip.
Big problem but the border assistant said his brother is the mayor of the town and he would take care of this and just be quiet. Also asked about animals and we said no animals and the immigration officer saw Scruffy and we said no animals so he just walked out of the RV.
So we had to go back around and let the customs people look at the RV and the motorcycle again and then we could proceed until they filled out the paper work.
This has now been about 2 hours to this point and we are not thru but hopefully from what the border assistant has told me it is now just a matter of time until they get the forms filled out and the custom fees paid. So we wait patienttttttttttlllllly.
After this it is about 90 miles to drive to the Nicaragua border and I am told that this one is much easier. We shall see.
Well we made it thru that border crossing and into Honduras but not until my great helpers had helped themselves to about $200.00 more of my US dollars than was necessary. Well you live and you learn and at the Honduras-Nicaragua border I was much more observant and in the future I will be even more diligent and not let the scammers get to me again.
The roads in Honduras were better than expected and by that I mean the road surfaces were good. The first 60 miles were even somewhat flat (meaning no real large hills or mountains. Then came the last 25 miles in Honduras where you might say we had the “Rocky Mountain Highs “ because believe me these were reallllly big high mountains that the road seemed to go up forever. And, remember what goes up must come downnnnn the other side.
The border crossing into Nicaragua was really simple compared to the 2 1/2 hours we spent at the Honduran border. In just about 30 minutes we were passed out of Honduras and had our customs documents and passports stamped and we were passed into Nicaragua.
Now we just had to find a place to spend the night.
This is not as easy as it seems to find a secure place to stay as you do not have RV parks here but you need to find a hotel with a secure parking area. Meaning locked and with an armed guard. No towns to speak of but we finally found the town of Esteli. After two or three tries we are now in an enclosed parking area, safe for the night.

2009-11-21T18:45:00.001-08:00

November 20, 2009
La Union at the Comfort Inn, El Salvador

Well this is just a few notes. We finished a wonderful dinner overlooking the ocean which was too dark to see. But the meal was great. Bev had the lobster and I had the buffet. Luis our waiter had spent 9 years serving on cruise ships out of San Pedro before coming back here. Seems like everyone here has someone who lived or worked in the US.
Well the battery is almost all down in the computer so it is time to say Buenos Noches.

2009-11-21T18:27:00.001-08:00

2009-11-20T14:54:00.001-08:00

November 20, 2009
San Vincente to La Union, El Salvador

These photos are out of order because I do not have the camera upload from today. Hope you enjoy the bumps
We did not drive far today as I did not wish to get caught in Honduras overnight and we were approaching the border to Honduras in 40 Km more and it was 11:00 AM. Although Honduras is less than 100 miles for us to cross I think what with border crossings etc I did not feel comfortable with the time frame. So we will leave early in the morning and try to get across in one day.
Last night we spent in a water park and the drive here was unremarkable. The roads here in El Salvador seem to be the best that we have encountered here in Central America. The countries of El Salvador and Guatemala are however one big mountain with El Salvador having the biggest mountains.
You can not in this RV ever get over 50 mph and 40 mph is what seems to be the most common speed when not in a pueblo area. With that said the ideas of distance and time have an entirely different meaning. Sort of like LA where every distance is measured in time to get there with the traffic and not the actual distance.
Today we are staying in the parking lot of the Comfort Inn in La Union which is at one of the southernmost parts of El Salvador and I think we are actually in Puerto Culuco with a great view out the front of the hotel. We try in these countries to stay in secure parking areas and do not park on the road or in remote fields as we might in the US. This is primarily for security reasons and if you notice all of the stores and even gas stations many times here have armed guards.
Well we will soon go to the pool area in the hotel and sit there overlooking the Pacific ocean now. Just think we have been to the Atlantic side and are now on the Pacific side of the countries.
We have really enjoyed the pool and other amenities at the Comfort Inn hotel here and Bev says it's almost like being on a vacation. What have we been doing until now???? Ah well, probably some pictures of this great place for you tomorrow. Wonderful view of the ocean and harbor.

2009-11-20T14:49:00.001-08:00

November 19, 2009
Chiquimulte Guatemala to San Vincente El Salvador

This was another driving and very stressful day. First we left Chiquimulte and drove a pleasant hour or so on a road that seem to deteriorate with each mile and the going was slow up and down those small mountains and then to the border at Anguiatu. At the last 2 miles before the border they pave the road much better.
Now park the RV over by the trucks and first have the immigration persons check your customs papers to see that you have the right vehicle papers and that you are exiting the country. Next over to customs to have them fill out about 4 forms (but first make copies of your drivers license and passport and vehicle registration, 2 copies please). Then wait in line till they fill out their paperwork. Now take these back to the customs people outside and have them stamp them and sign them. Now you must have your passport stamped at immigration.
You may now leave Guatemala.
Twenty yards up the road you may enter El Salvador. First go to customs and have them give you a vehicle permit. Now they want you to first fill out a form in Spanish with the number of cyl of the vehicle, number of cc of the engine, the engine number, number of occupants, vin number and license number along with other stuff that I had no clue as to.
Well after about an two hours we were finally thru with all of that an could then go to immigration and have our passports stamped. Well he just records it in the computer and off you go. Finally we are on our way.
Please make a copy of this as 1Km down the road they will ask you for a copy of what we have just filled out. The road is packed with large semi trucks on both sides of a very narrow road making it possible for traffic to go only one way. There must have been a hundred trucks waiting to cross the border.
I will say that the roads improved dramatically in El Salvador. Still two lane but now it was concrete with a large shoulder. The problem is that El Salvador has really big mountains so that you may only go about 45 mph at the maximum and most of the time it is much less than that. Up and down and around corners and all the time worried about trucks passing you or cows or horses on the road.
Other pluses of El Salvador is the gas is cheaper (Guatemala was about $4.50 per gallon and here it is just over $3.00 per gallon. And the currency is US dollars. So you are not always having to convert 8 to one and having to change money.
We finally came to Santa Ana where the road became 4 lane divided roadway to San Salvador. This is not saying much as even though the road is quite nice people park on the right side of the road taking up some of the right lane and then others just stop in the right lane and then there are vendors all along the right side of the road every few hundred feet. This on what we would consider a freeway. Again 44-50 mph max.
Then the excitement of passing thru San Salvador a major city where we had to navigate city street traffic. I think we got lost because the map shows a major road. I finally paid a cab driver to show us the way. Even then after we left him we asked about 4 times for directions and it was always just go straight, and a lot of other words I did not comprehend.
Finally out of town we tried to stop at a motel but could not fit thru the gate (we are too tall. So we are staying the night at an aquapark near San Vincente that is gated and they tell us it has a guard at night. There is a hotel jus across the street that owns this so I think that the guard may be for both. There is a church next door where they are singing and clapping and a horse grazing on the side of the road so all is now well with the world.
Tomorrow we must reprovision our RV with some of the fresh things that we need to buy so if we see a large supermarket that will be a stop we must try to make. Then on to the border with Honduras and I hope that it goes smoother.
Well that’s all from the land of C.A. Ozz for today and maybe if the stars shine tonight and the moon comes over the barn we will be able to post thes last few days worth of blogs sometime soon.

2009-11-20T14:42:00.000-08:00

November 19, 2009
Tikal to Chiquimula Guatemala
Well this is one day late because we got in so late and were so tired yesterday. We spent a long day driving and did not go very far but it was very slow going and arrived after dark because we were not able to stay in the town that I had wanted to. But that is for later.
First off the driving was on narrow two lane roads but better than in Belize at first. The countryside however is like driving thru Appalachia and the roads and mountainsides remind you of this. Every 3 miles or so is another hamlet of 10-20 homes (reallllly smalllll homes) with their mueules (speed bumps) that are not always marked so you must be really careful. Top speed was about 40 mph and most of the time much less than that.
It was however beautiful scenery when I could see it and there was a lot of cattle grazing on the hillsides. The truck traffic got worse as we left Hwy 13 and got onto Hwy 3 at Castillo Del San Felipe de Lara. This is where we had planned to spend the night and to go see an old Spanish Fort during the day while there. However, the town of Rio Dulce where you turn off the main road and go 3 Km to get there is jammed with cars and trucks. Trucks park on each side of the street and vendors stalls spill out into the street and then people stop their cars in the street so that traffic going both ways must then navigate a single lane of traffic and you think at any moment I am going to run over a shoe shine boy or knock over a bakery stand. In the center of all of this is a single lane like that that I must turn to the right on all the while avoiding pedestrians. No way that this is going to happen.
So across the bridge we went and onto Rio Hondo along the river. When we got there there was no place to stop so it was on to Chiquimula we had to turn onto Hwy CA 12 where we had a Lonely Planet Guide that told us of a hotel in town. Well forget that we went there on again very narrow streets and there was no place to park an RV. Next stop a shopping center with lots of guards and I do mean lots of armed guards with a total security fence around it. Well after asking they said no we could not spend the night there.
On down the road there was a Texaco station that we stopped at and they pointed us to a motel across the street that had an armed guard and a fenced and walled parking area. So off we went and got a room and locked the RV and by that time we were too tired and bitching at one another to even make dinner, so naturally it was time then for bed.
Things always look better in the morning, right.

2009-11-20T14:39:00.001-08:00

November 17, 2009
Tikal
These ruins more than lived up to their expectation. So far the best we have seen anywhere (well we have only seen three other ones).
They are in a jungle canopy so that between the sites you are in the shade of trees which are gigantic in size. You come to clearings where they have cleared the jungle and the ruins.
The most impressive site is the Grand Center where there are two gigantic Mayan pyramids facing one another across an open grassed area that would have been a plaza covered with stone and tile. They sore at least 250 feet high and are just awesome. Remember that in their day these would have been covered with plaster and painted bright red in color. On one side of this plaza was then a set of six pyramids and on the other side was also a building of enormity. Then they had alters and sitting areas for the nobles in the plaza area.
Other Mayan ruins we saw had a population of about 20,000 to 30,000 people but this site had over 100,000 living here so it was much larger in size. Next we went to visit some of the other temple site areas. There are at least 7 in the visitor areas as well as multiple and numerous sites not listed as temples.
On one we climbed up to the top (yes you can climb the ruins at this site) and I have my picture some of the other temple sites popping up out of the jungle. This was the highest Mayan ruin in C.A. at 65 meters high or about 225 feet.
We also liked this site for its wildlife. Monkeys (spider and Howler), wild turkeys (like a turkey but much more colorful plumage), red headed woodpeckers, a crocodile, we did not see a panther or jaguar but they are here and something that looks like a small anteater.
Well too much to tell you all for one day and tomorrow is just another adventure all into itself. So good night for now. They wanted me to go on a sunrise tour of the ruins but 4:00 AM just is not for me.

2009-11-20T14:33:00.000-08:00

November 17, 2009
Belize City to Tikal, Guatemala

We left the marina early this morning and made our way to the border with Guatemala. First off the landscape changed as we went higher in elevation to cattle grazing and the tropical jungle started to get denser.
The roads in Belize were not as good as in Mexico and so it was slow going. Many potholes and rough to the border. Next came the border.
Well first you must exit Belize. Pay the exit tax, Get the passports stamped, Get the vehicles stamped for exit and then fill out the questionnaire for the tourist bureau. Next proceed to the border checkpoint and have them look at all your paperwork.
Now you may pass on to Guatemala. First have the vehicle sprayed with insecticide in what appears to be a carwash. Now pay for having it sprayed but first you must change some money to quezalles (?). Got ripped off on that one only 7 quezalles to the dollar. Should have gotten 8. Now go into the immigration station and have our passports stamped. Now to customs to have the vehicle permits issued. Get that paperwork done and then pay the permit fee. Go back and now have them inspect the vehicles and then they will issue the vehicle stamps. Next go to the border point and have them check the stickers and your passport stamps. Now you cross the bridge into Guatemala and you pay a fee for the bridge toll. Well you have finally arrived.
The first 10 miles of road were just a dirt-gravel road and the craters and potholes really pretty severe. We were told this and I was prepared. After that it was a really nice new paved road and even better than Belize. Then a stretch where it was paved and then 100 yards of rough and then paved and so on and so on.
We finally reached the turnoff for Tikal and I was worried because this was on the map as a secondary road. We asked a policeman and he said that we would have no problem with the road so off I went.
He was right the road was really pretty good with no potholes and we only had to go about 25 miles. So we entered the Tikal National Park and had to fill out a form but did not have to pay there. Then you go about another 20 miles and you come to the entry area for the ruins. They check your permit here and he mentioned that I made good time in coming from the entrance to the park. I wonder if you are fined for making too good a time.
The park is huge much like Yellowstone and there are many things to do here but most people come for the ruins which I must say are some of the best I have seen so far.

2009-11-20T14:28:00.000-08:00

November 16, 2009
Old Belize Marina

Yesterday was an uneventful day with just more or less relaxing, reading and getting caught up with laundry and those other tasks that an RV needs.
We did have lunch at the marina restaurant across the way (you have to go to the other side of the waterway). It is more like a large restaurant, beach club with a swimming area, zip lines, volleyball courts, dance area and lots of lounge chairs more like a resort hotel. They seem to do quite a job also catering special events like weddings. It was nice to just sit by the water and have a leisurely lunch. My first hamburger in quite some time and we had an appetizer of a Belizean dish which was chicken and vegetables wrapped in a corn tortilla and then deep fried. The food here is not spicy as in hot like Mexico but more the spices of Jamaica. Bev had some shrimp with a local sauce on top again very caribe in the taste.
Later because I could not get on the wifi at the restaurant I went to the harbormasters office and he was kind to let me use his internet connection. Well the blogs got posted and I looked at my e-mail. Some documents they want Bev to sign just will not happen until we get back to CA. By the way this is also C.A. but here it means Central America.
I talked to Gabe momentarily on the harbormaster phone but not very long because I did not wish to run up a bill for him. Our Skype is blocked here and I did not understand the harbormaster to know whether it was just his computer system or the whole country. I think that it was the whole country.
Today is Monday so after 2:30 PM I will be at the DHL office to see if our parts have arrived. If so then we can leave for Tikal tomorrow. If not then we must stay another day. If they do not come before Wednesday then we must leave the country Thursday because that is when our visas expire. Ah well, there is always a backup plan I am sure.
It is now 6:00 PM and the parts did arrive today. Picking them up was a real experience in government bureaucracy. First I went to the DHL office downtown on New Rd. The truck coming from Guatemala did not arrive till 3:30 PM (estimated time of arrival was 2:00 PM) ah well roads and everything and it is a 6-8 hour drive. So then I was told that my package had arrived but I needed to pick it up out at the port because customs had it. But first you need to sign for it here. So after copying my driver’s license on the copy machine that they had to stand on stepstool to reach and having me signs some forms and then gave me about 6 forms to take with me to the port. This is on the other side of town. So off TT (Tiny Tigre the scooter) and I go to try to find the cargo office. Well the sign was about the size of a 3x5” postcard but we made it.
So then we wait and they finally usher me into the back and have me open my package. Yes, those are my parts inside. Now the customs officer estimates the duty to be paid. Yesss ssssir now you must go over to the Customs House to payyyyy the duty. Wel where is that? Just over there you can’t see it from here but it is near the green building about a block away. So TT and I head off to find this only getting lost once. Then inside the building to find the cashier and pay the duty and have about 4 forms looked at and a receipt in triplicate made out and the log book signed. Next back to the Cargo Office where they took the 6 r so copies I had and stamped about three of them and then you sign two of these and then they have to sign a couple of them and then log them into their log book. Finally, you get your package back and now all you have to do is figure out how to get back to the RV. Ah, the pleasures of dealing with all of this vacation stuff.
So tomorrow in the AM we head to Tikal and none too soon because our visas expire in two days and so does the insurance for Belize on the RV.

2009-11-15T10:13:00.000-08:00

Things that go Bump in the Road
Well this is just one of those things that comes up when you have nothing else to do in the day but think of all of the bumps that are in the road ahead of you. Maybe even all of those little bumps that are in your life seem like this also. Ah well here it goes.

1. First there is Mexico with what they call their topes in Belize they just call them a BUMP these can be steep little buggers that are at the beginning and end of each town. They are solid across the road and present a pretty good sized hurdle that you have to really slow down for. It’s sort of like the hurdle that you face when you don’t have the financial where with all to do what you want. You have to slow down and accumulate the necessary funds to proceed. Steep but short lived.
2. These are the shallower but flat topes or pedestrian crosswalks that are on the road. They are less steep but they are longer in length than the other topes. These are sort of like a longer life commitment. You climb the hill a little more gradually but you stay up there longer and you slide down the other side a little more easily. These are really the nicest kind of speed bump.
3. Next there are the speed bump balls: These nasty little things you think that you will have no problem with. Unfortunately they can rattle your teeth and jar your head and really shake things up. These are sort of like those silly little life experiences that do not look all that bad looking back. Even when you are up against them you say to yourself well it can’t be that serious but then the damn thing really rocks you.
4. Then there are the potholes in the road. These are sort of like the potholes in your life. Some are just little ripples in time that you sort of coast over without hardly even knowing that you came to it. Others are those moon craters that come out of nowhere with no warning that threaten to take you right off the course of life and derail you into a ditch.

No matter what may befall you on your adventurous travels, remember that the road is always out in front of you. Whether you choose to go straight ahead, turn right or left or even take a detour the road itself is always there in front of you. Just try not to turn around, it’s the pits in an RV on a narrow road.

Sorry but this post must wait for pictures as they are on the other camera.

2009-11-15T09:59:00.000-08:00

Transportation in Mexico
I thought that I should tell you some of the modes of local transportation that are used here and how they work:
1. Subway: May cost about 2 pesos. I do not have a picture of this but Mexico City I am told has one of the cleanest and best run subways in the world.
2. Trains: You can buy I am told an all day pass for about 15 pesos. These are found again in Mexico City and the surrounding suburbs and are really fast and quite good to take if you are a tourist.
3. Buses between Cities: These are usually Mercedes or Volvo buses which are like our large Grayhound buses but there are several competing companies (Del Norte, PAN?, etc).
4. Inner City Buses: Usually cost about 5 pesos (40 cents). Somewhat small than the other busses and they drive as I said very fast and stop in the street often without pulling over very much to pick up there passengers. We have traveled on these and they do a remarkably good job.
5. Collectivos: These are small mini vans and they compete with the buses. They will often cram 20 people in one of these small vans so it is not a mode of transportation that we have taken.
6. Cabs: Usually the size of a small 4 door Toyota and always with a stick shift they are often economical to take and get you where you want to go with the least amount of hassel.
7. Rickshaw motorbikes: These we saw in the tourist areas and small towns along the outer banks on the Gulf of Mexico near Ciudad del Carmen. They were essentially a motorcycle with either a trailer for passengers or the passenger part a part of the vehicle.
8. Our RV, Big Tigre: Very comfortable to drive in on the tole roads but also expensive. We get about 8.5 mpg and the toles are an added expense (450 pesos for about 125 miles).
9. Our scooter, Blue Boy: he is very economical about 50-65 mpg and easy to park. Not so comfortable to ride for a long period of time.

2009-11-15T09:54:00.000-08:00

November 14, 2009
Belize City and Caye Caulker
Today we had to wake up early in the morning. This was so that we could arrive at the water taxi dock in Belize City before 8:00 AM and we still had to drive into town to get there. It was an easier drive than I anticipated and on the way into town we have to drive thru the cemetery. Yes you read that correctly we had to drive thru the cemetery. The western hwy in Belize goes right straight thru the center of the cemetery and it even has a median in part of the road and in the median are burial plots. Here everyone is buried above ground much like they are in New Orleans.
After we got to the dock we got our tickets to Caye Caulker and then waited for the water taxi to come in. We boarded and the ride was very smooth out to the island. This takes about 45 minutes and you weave your way among the many cayes or islands along the way. Many look as if there is no land on them at all but just trees in the water. All of the homes are either in the water or on stilts on the land. They mus have a lot of flooding especially during hurricane season.
Once we arrived on Caye Caulker we got a boat to go out to the reefs. This was about a 26 foot ponga with a top to protect you from the sun. Our guide for the day Glen was really great. We made three stops at different points on various reefs and Glen would jump out with us and point out the various sea creatures, fish or types of coral.
There was leaf coral , mushroom type coral and then the coral you are used to seeing sort of like branches on a tree. But the colors were incredible from blue veins to purple color to beige and yellow.
The fish were in every variety imaginable: parrot fish, red snapper, groupers, barracuda, eels both spotted and green some type with a long snout and the colors were from the bright yellows, blues and the iridescent greens and blues. Awesome, to be swimming just a foot from them and sometimes closer. There were also turtles and lobster and worm coral.
Next was an area of stingrays. Literally there were sting rays all around you and even touching you. They had the feel of a sort of slimy silky texture that was not at all like a fish. They would come right up to you and they were usually in groups of two to four.
Well after 45 minutes of snorkeling at each site it was time to head for shore.
Bev barely had time to change out of her bathing suit before the next water taxi was there to take us back to Belize City.
On the way back to the RV we spotted the local fishermen with their catch for the day spread out on their boats trying to sell the fish that they had. Quite a display.
The things I shall remember most of this country may be the following.
1. The politeness of the people that we have encountered.
2. The sometimes poverty that you see in Belize City. They have a new government now and the last one apparently was very corrupt and bankrupt the country. On our dive we met two men from the World Bank there to help the new Belize government write laws that would make the government more open and more accountable to the public for the way it handled its finances.
3. The bugs. They are small and really nasty. You do not see them at all and Bev and I both have bites all over our legs and arms.
Tomorrow is a rest day and possibly laundry or do it on Monday when I go to pick up the parts at DHL. Maybe I can get onto the internet here at the harbormaster’s office.
All in all a really great day

2009-11-15T09:49:00.000-08:00

November 13, 2009
Belize City
Today we are parked at the Old Belize Marina and overlooking the water and the harbor entrance. We have electrical and water but no dump so in the next two days I must find a place to dump. Camping is such a pleasure and dumping has got to be one of the greatest pleasures in a man’s life (:>).
Well today it is onto a hospital in Belize City where we will try to get Bev’s shot for hepatitis. Remember that in Mexico we had trouble finding a place to have that done. Next will be a short sightseeing trip in town and onto Angelus Press ( a place where hopefully we can get a map of Guatemala). Then to DHL and they should have the parts we ordered from the states there. Hopefully, they have cleared customs. And then a short stop at the market to reprovision and we shall either have dinner downtown or come back here.
I want to check out the charter possibilities of going out to the cayes (this is pronounced Keys) to do some snorkeling but there are no cruise ships offshore today (there were three of them yesterday) and so everything sort of shuts down here for that when they are not here.
Well back from our trip into town. First checked out the water taxi which will take us to Caye Caulker and from there we go on a snorkeling adventure. Could even be we will go down and feed the sharks. Next we had a delightful lunch at the Riverside Restaurant. This is owned by the family that make Belikin Beer here. They own most of Belize it seems and have a monopoly on beer here in Belize.
Then a little window shopping to kill some time and found a furniture maker (Mennonite, they are of German descent ) who had some really nice stuff made of Rosewood and it looked to me as if it was Guanacaste wood although he called it something else.
Well the package from DHL did not make it today so that means Monday afternoon. Well that means we will have to stay in paradise till Tuesday morning. So much for the movin on type of rolling stones.
Also, Bev has renamed our scooter TT for Tiny Tigre after Big Tigre the RV and Little Tigre the Jeep.
Bev did get her hepatitis shot today at one of the hospitals here in Belize. First you go to the hospital pharmacy and get the invoice for the injection. Next, onto the billing department to pay for it. Then back to the pharmacy with the paid receipt. Lastly, to the emergency room where the nurse administers the injection. Ah well, it’s all done.
Now if I can only get onto the internet sometime to post all of this.

2009-11-15T09:38:00.000-08:00

November 12, 2009
Cenote Azul to Belize City, Belize

Well it was not a long drive but an interesting adventure. First, there were no gas stations between Cenote Azule and the border so we had to turn around and go back about 3 miles into Chetumal and find a Pemex station and fill up with gas. Gas is 40% higher in Belize than in Mexico.
Next it was on to the border. First we had to exit Mexico and that meant getting our tourist visas stamped on the Mexican side. Well to have them stamped and the passports stamped so that we did not have to get new tourist visas coming back was about $18.00 US.
Now onto the Belizian side of the border. Firs off was to get the tires sprayed with insecticide ($7.00 US) then onto immigration to have the passports signed (no charge).
Were we bringing in any pets or animals? Yes a cat. Co you have a pet importation permit which you should have applied for in advance? Dud no. Well that will cost you now because you did not apply in advance for it ($50.00) plus a pet inspection of $10.00 US. So I got the cat into the agriculture inspectors office and he asked if the cat was tame. Yes but he is now very nervous as you can see and so be careful. He looked at Scruffy from 4-5 feet away and said he looks very healthy and well fed, ok. Next are you bringing any fruits and vegetables into the country. Yes oranges and a cabbage. Well, no oranges. So here is a bag to gather your illegal imports and you put them in here and bring them back into the office. Next was the vehicle import stamp for the motorhome and scooter. There is no charge for this but we now have 1 week to be in Belize and then we must be out because this is stamped with all of the vehicle information in it and must be stamped when we leave. Then you need Belize auto insurance and a sticker for it ($14.50 US).
We are now ready to be imported into the country. You drive up to the immigration checkpoint and a rather bored looking immigration officer just waves you into the country.
The roads are definitely more rural here in Belize than in Mexico. Mostly like our county roads (two lane paved and then rock and tar over that). They had few potholes though and the signs were pretty good (I only got lost once on the way to Belize city). You do pass through all of the small towns and villages such as Crooked Tree, Orange Walk and many others. Here they call the topes “bumps” and most of the bumps were marked but not all of them so one must be diligent and vigilant when driving. I did go over one bump that I was not vigilant enough for.
The vegetation has gone from sugar cane fields in the north of Belize to cattle grazing in the areas as we get closer to Belize city. Here the Caribes seem to predominate the population and you get to see dredlocks on some of them although most see to have short haircuts. The architecture of the buildings has definitely changed. Gone are the Mayan thatched roofs and cement walls. Now we see what I would describe as English colonial with small wood clapboard homes only one to three rooms with open windows and tin roofs. These are on stilts or well above the ground I think either for water or for insects. Yes, there are lots of those little critters here in the tropics. All sizes and colors that do bite.
The nice thing is that everyone speaks English and all of the signs etc are in English. Belizian currency is simple there are 2 Belize dollars to a US dollar. Things are more expensive here and you do have a choice now in gas stations (mostly Texaco and Gulf it would appear).
The population is a mixture of Caribs (blacks from the Carribian countries, Jamaica, Cuba, West Indies), Mayan Indian cultures, and Europeans mostly English. There are also a great many Canadians who live here, either full or part time.

2009-11-15T09:30:00.000-08:00

November 10, 2009
Paa Mul to Cenote Azul

Sorry this one got out of order.

On a regular map this will look like Cancun or Playa del Carmen to Chetumal, although we are really about 15 miles north of Chetumal at this time. The drive today was really great and we were mostly on a Mexican three lane road that was just about all new. A few areas of two lane road where they were undergoing road construction to widen the road to three lane. With almost no traffic these roads drive really well. And with few cities or towns there are almost no topes. The road was also extremely straight as this part of Mexico is almost all jungle and flat.
First thing this morning we went to the timeshare lecture and we sat in the lobby for about an hour and no one came to see us. Well the good thing was I got all of my blogs posted, and called my brother in law Bob about the part for the RV. Finally I went up to someone after all of my postings and told them that we had been waiting that long without any person assisting us. They were very apologetic about it, but when they said that we would have to go thru another 90 minutes of orientation I just said no thanks and goodbye. Probably because we had been promiset breakfast and then it would be another 90 minutes before we ate. Not your problem or fault to the person who finally was helping us, but there was an error and I did not have time to waste anymore. I’m hungry now and have been here long enough.
So on to Tulum we went. This is perhaps the most scenic of all the Mayan ruins as it sits on the cliffs overlooking the ocean. Therefore, the site is awesome with large grassy areas and multiple buildings. Unfortunately like Chichen Itza you are not allowed to climb on any of the ruins or into them. They also have a great beach here with the turquoise blue water so often associated with tropical areas. There is also a huge reef just offshore and you could see the breakers rolling over it.
We left Tulum and continued on to Cenote Azul or the Blue Cenote. We are now camped here on the grass overlooking what would appear to be a blue clear lagoon but is really a fresh water lagoon separated from the ocean many years ago. Therefore the term Cenote or fresh water sinkhole is used to denote it. We went to the waters edge tonight and the water is pleasantly warm so tomorrow will be a dip into Cenote Azule.
I also talked to Casey at Redland Truck whom Bob contacted about the parts that are needed to do a final repair on the front torsion bar of the RV. Casey said he should have them in tomorrow and will ship them out via DHL to Belize City in Belize. That way they should be there when we arrive. Thanks to all of you Bob and Casey for your efforts. When you are this remote from the world it sure is nice to know that you have a great support group out there.
Tomorrow we will also visit Bacalar where the cenote is supposed to have as many as seven different colors that you can see from the shore and can swim in it in some areas.
Then the next day possibly a recon trip to Chetamul to to see what the border crossing looks like and to do some duty free shopping. I still have to replace the watch that I lost while snorkeling.

2009-11-15T09:20:00.000-08:00

Cenote Azule
November 11, 2009
Today was a relaxing day with not much to do. First a trip into Chetumal to do some shopping and to see the town. Really quite large and we lucked onto the central market where I bought a backpack to replace the one where the zipper broke making it quite useless.
Next on to get some butane for the RV which we again lucked out passing the butane plant. Then onto gas for the RV. Why is it that every time I pass a gas station it is always on the wrong side of the road. One thing I have found is that here in Mexico the Pemex stations is that they are usually large making getting into them with the RV easy.
We then found a large Wal Mart type grocery store Chemmal I think may have been the name of it and stocked up with items that we needed. The bakery sections of all of these stores are just huge and the meat sections will cut to order for you.
Then it was back to Cenote Azule or Blue Lagoon for a refreshing dip into that clear blue water. You can see the bottom which is a decomposed limestone rock or sand and there are small (6’ in diameter ) limestone rocks in the water which are flat and just covered with water at the waters edge. Other than that the water is just as clear as a swimming pool and the temperature the same. This is the same cenote as Bacalar Cenote which is called the cenote of 7 colors. Even here you can see the different shades of clear with a white bottom, turquoise and then going to a deep blue color in the water.
This has to be the prettiest campsite we have been in with the grassy area that the RV sits on and the waters edge right in front of us. However all good things must come to an end and tomorrow we go to Belize. Yes, we will be in a different country tonight and probably on the Caribbean ocean. Belize is a small former British colony and so English will again be the language used. We have been seeing even here some of the Mennonite ancestors that have emigrated to Belize. The men wearing their bib overalls and straw hats and the women in their long dresses with the white aprons and with their bonnets on.
Well time to go and relax some more.

Paa Mul to Cozomel

2009-11-10T07:07:00.001-08:00

November 9, 2009
Paa Mul and Cozumel
Well today was another of those just great memorable days in the life of a traveler. First off we headed to pick up the laundry which we dropped off the day before. Then onto having the RV serviced. The place I stopped at today usually only did tires but they had large service bays and the manager said that they could do it if they could find the oil filter. Well, no problemo, I have the filter and the oil. I also carry a diagram of all of the grease fittings so that really helped them out.
They did find a broken bracket under the RV that holds the sway bar down on the drivers side. However, in Mexico they are very good at implementing repairs and although they could not get a new one they were able to weld and repair the old one. We also had the oil changed on the scooter and all of this for about $20.00.
After that was finished I left the RV at the tire place as they said that they would close at 8:00 pm and it was alright they would look after it. A short taxi ride and we were at the ferry terminal for Cozumel.
Cozumel is an island resort just off the coast from Cancun and is and all tourist area. There are more foreigners there than Mexicans with large mega hotel complexes and cruise ships stop there all the time. It was a short 45 minute boat ride on the ferry and we could not have taken the scooter as it was just passengers only (maybe bicycles could go on?).
After getting off the ship we had a snorkeling trip on a ponga with two guides. They provided two stops at reefs (paradise Reef and one other) and had all of the equipment if you did not have your own. We did so again no problemo.
The fish life was incredible with blue colors that I have never seen before when snorkeling. There were also the yellow and black sunfish, a silver fish with and iridescent green and blue stripe along its side and a black grouper I think.
The coral also was in colors of blue and orange as well as the familiar yellow. This again I had not experienced while diving before.
After the boat trip we took a scooter and went part way around the island. Most people go all the way around but it was getting late by now and I did not wish to drive it in the dark all the way around.
We stopped and had drinks (margarita time) and dinner at a restaurant over the ocean, Albertos. What a great choice, we had fish served Mayan style (Tikin-Xic) (they steam it in foil with lots of vegetables and anchiote spice, which is sort of spicy paprika. Served with potatoes, rice, tomatoes, cucumber and limes. After appetizers of guacamole and nachos what a great end to a wonderful day.
We caught the ferry back and then a short taxi ride to our RV and we were on our way back to the campsite. It was nice to see that when we got to the tire place that they were closed but had still posted a night watchman who was looking after our RV. We left him a small propina (tip) and thanked him for watching it for us.
Well tomorrow is breakfast at the Royal Caribe Resort and listen to a condo or timeshare pitch I am sure. This was for the snorkeling trip and the scooter rental today. Then it is onto Tulum to see our last Mayan ruin in Mexico and then onto Chetumal. This is where we will cross the border into Belize.
If I ever get wifi service again you will get these posts!

Paa Mul day 2

2009-11-10T07:03:00.000-08:00

November 8, 2009
Paa Mul

You know in yesterday’s blog how I complained about the rain so much. Well unknown to me we were in a hurricane. Yessssireee, a full blown hurricane came thru Cancun while we were driving yesterday and that is what brought all of the havoc to our little adventure. Well, we survived and Big Tigre did a great job.
Today was a very low key day as I was not sure of the weather and so a trip to Cozumel was not on the agenda as planned. So we went back to Playa del Carmen and dropped off our laundry to be picked up tomorrow and then onto doing a little shopping. We were going to have the RV serviced before we head to Belize but this is Sunday (somehow I lost a day and thought that it was Saturday) so no place was open. Well one place was open but we were too tall to fit into his bays. So tomorrow we will pick up the laundry and board the ferry to Cosumel.
I was going to take the scooter with us but they told me here in the campground to just rent one when we got over there.
So today we had lunch at the campground restaurant (shrimp for Bev and a quesada for myself). Then in the afternoon we strolled over to a beach close by and I was going to go in but the water was still somewhat rough so we just turned around and came back. I did go in at the campground and the water was pleasantly warm and refreshing. The surf only a little strong getting in but the surprising thing was the water seemed saltier than where we live in Mexico. Could be the difference between the Sea of Cortez getting possibly more fresh water coming into it from the Colorado River and the Gulf of Mexico being near the Atlantic. Beats me but that is just my take on it.
So after sitting under the outdoor palapa at the restaurant and just sitting under the palapa at the restaurant and just sitting under the palapa at the restaurant we finally got off our you know what and now are sitting in the RV.
Tomorrow should be a more eventful day.

Chichen Itza to Paa Mal

2009-11-10T06:59:00.000-08:00

November 7, 2009
Chichen Itza to Paa Mul

This will certainly go down as one of the more interesting days in the annals of out trip.
We left Chichen Itza and the Mayan Ruins and went by way of the Libra road 180 toward Cancun. This was a fairly good to so-so road passing as they do thru the small towns and some were very colonial in makeup. Other smaller pueblos had that distinctive Mayan look with the thatched roofs and small homes with no walls often. Even the churches would have only roofs and a bell tower with no walls.
We stopped at a cenote X-Kekan along the way. Cenotes are pools of fresh water fed by underground springs or rivers that pass thru the limestone in the ground. Limestone being porous the water often forms caves. At X-Kekan the cenote is in inside of a cave. The entrance is narrow and you walk down stone steps for about 40-50 feet and enter the huge main cavern. This is about 200 feet round and the ceiling is all stalactites and is about 40 feet from the water. The pool though is the real attraction, the water is crystal clear and about 40 feet deep at the deepest point. Small fish swim in it and the color is an aqua blue when deeper.
Bev and I were the only ones there for about 45 minutes other than a guide who was watching the place. Swimming in a cave in crystal clear warm water is an experience not to be forgotten. And the water is so soft that when you get out your skin just feels so refreshed afterwards.
After our swim the guide showed us some of the rest of the cave not seen when we first entered. There were other smaller caverns that you had to climb and bend over to get into with rock formations that resembled animals or faces.
Well after that refreshing stop we continued on towards Cancun. Now it started to rain. As always a little rain turned into a lot of rain and that turned into a monsoon down pore.
It was so bad that when we were in Cancun we did not drive out onto the reef surrounding the lagoon where all of the hotels are. There was so much rain that roads were literally swimming pools of water and at one point a bus and I were the only vehicles either brave enough or foolish enough to go thru one section of road. Well he went first and sort of pushed the water aside and I followed in his wake. Lots of stranded cars and trucks that the engines got wet because they could not clear the flooded areas.
Along the highway the police were caravanning vehicles so that they would not drive too fast.
We finally made it to Paa Mul which is a campground resort mostly with permanent residents on the beach south of Cancun about 40 miles. I must say that the people here have really expanded on their RV’s with huge 2 story pallapas enclosing the whole lot. Then they add outdoor kitchens and bathrooms and sleeping quarters in the upper levels.
Well tomorrow we shall get the laundry done, have the RV serviced and if the weather at all accommodates a trip to Cozumel. That does not look promising as we are supposed to have rain for the next three days. Tonight however, the rain has again stopped. It seems to come up in the afternoon and dissipate at night

Uxmal to Chichen Itza

2009-11-10T06:56:00.000-08:00

November 6, 2009
Uxmal to Chichen Itza

Well the drive today was easy. First to Merida on a Mexican three lane and then the half way Preferico around the city and then the autopista to Chichen Itza. The road was really well paved all the way and well signed so that I had no trouble at all finding my way. Someone told me that the roads as you got farther south in Mexico improved greatly and now I am beginning to believe them.
Chichen Itza is the most well known of the Mayan archeological sites outside of Mexico City and I think the most visited because Cancun is just a two hour drive away. The tour busses were here in force when we arrived at noon time and they are just now all leaving 4:00 pm (they are one hour later here than the times I will give you, I have not reset my watch to local time). About 7,000 people visit here a day during the tourist season, as compared to about 1,200 people all season in 1965.
The site is much larger than Uxmal, about 40-50 Km square but also much more commercial. There are vendors all over the place. They have done quite a jobe of keeping you off of any of the pyramids, in Uxmal you could climb up just about anywhere you wanted.
Here they have also excavated some of the insides of some of the pyramids and opened the rooms that were inside them. Tourists however, are not allowed into these areas.
They have several different areas:
1. The ball field which is quite well preserved and very large. Showing the rings for the goals and where the king sat at one end and the referees or judges at the other. The acoustics again are fantastic as you can hear a person speaking from one end to the other and it is at least 100 yards.
2. An observatory building: The Mayans were great astrologers and mathematicians and the building has 365 steps to represent the year. Their calendar was 20 months and 5 days. During the winter and summer equinox the side of the building casts the shadow of a snake onto a wall.
3. The Central Pyramid: This is quite large but you can not climb this one.
4. A burial pyramid which was quite large and flat on top and had skulls carved into the stones on the sides.
The hieroglyphics here seem better preserved and they did do human sacrifices here. The captain of the winning ball team was beheaded for example supposedly a great honor. Children and virgins were sometimes drowned. The carvings show birds holding human hearts in their claws.
Imagine if you will most of this whole area covered with limestone rocks. Later these square rocks were taken by the Spanish to build their churches and cathedrals and some be the later villagers for their homes when the Spanish conquered the region. Well tonight if the rain doesn’t come down we will see the light show on the pyramids. Then we must find a campsite for the night as we are not allowed to stay in this parking lot.

2009-11-06T08:22:00.001-08:00

November 5, 2009
Uxmal
We took a guide to see the site (Sergio) who was well worth the 350 pesos that we had to pay for his expertise. He was Mayan but spoke very good English. We even got a lesson in the Mayan language and found that they had a written language as well. He was saying that 80% of the villagers in the Yucatan still speak the Mayan language.
This is a Mayan ruin and one of the 4 largest in Mexico. Only 25% has been uncovered but what there is, is very spectacular. There is a governors palace which sits on top of a large pyramid and is three stories high. Hence the name Uxmal which means three in Mayan.
There is also a ball court where they are not sure if the winner in other cities was sacrificed or the looser because it was such an honor to be the winner. In Uxmal there were no human sacrifices that they could uncover. Mostly they worshiped the snakes (diamond back rattlers and coral snakes), birds (the humming bird, the cardinal, a sort of peacock, and a sort of parrot ). They also had a building for the turtle whom they believed was a messenger of the rain.
The original site which covered hundreds of acres was all covered with stone or tile (no grass or plants) and the area was dotted with hundreds of cisterns to collect water as this was their only source of water during the non rainy season. All of the outside areas were sloped to drain the water into these cisterns.
There was a large ceremonial area where buildings are on all sides with what would have been a giant amphitheater in the center. The head man sat on a chair of stone on one side and the commoners on rows of steps on the other two sides. The acoustics were fantastic. You could hear clearly from anywhere within the amphitheater sound echoing around.
The Mayan arch as an interesting architectural structure that did not depend upon its keystone for support but rather the stones on the side of the arch were shaped in such a way as to carry the weight of the arch.
Well tonight we go back to see the area lit up for the night show. We understand that this is quite spectacular.
Tonight we are staying in a parking area just next to the site. Easy to get to the site and I was able to fill the fresh water tanks, but alas tomorrow for sure I need to dump the other tanks.
Well, there was no light show. Just 30 minutes or so before the show was to start it started to rain. The rain was not hard but they decided to cancel the show. We got back to the RV and in about another 15 minutes the rain stopped. What can you say the stars were just against us seeing the light show.
This morning I finally got onto the internet to post the blogs.
Today we sill skip Merida and go onto Chichen Itza.

2009-11-06T08:10:00.000-08:00

November 5, 2009
Isla Aguada to Uxmal,

Well last night was interesting with the sound of the surf in our ears like drum rolls in the night as the waves found their final resting place on the white sand beaches in front of us. The most restful of all nights with no stars because of the cloud cover so that it was black as a coal mine outside. The night watchman came by to assure us that he would watch over and protect us. So this morning we took him some treats and he was very thankful. The days driving was along white sand beaches for most of the way and where we could see them lagoons on the other side but mostly just trees covered with vines that had blue, white and yellow flowers on them. To say incredible was just the sort of thing that came to mind and literally few if any homes or people anywhere.
We did have our first military checkpoint where they actually came into the RV. And wouldn’t you know it right there on the table was a plastic bag that looked very much like marijuana. Well I assured the soldat that this was for my gato and was catnip. He seemed amused and showed it to his friend and they were gone.
We did have one agricultural stop yesterday and they did confiscate our oranges and fresh eggs. So we bought some more at the next city which was no real loss as there were only two eggs and about 5 oranges.
Today we arrived at Uxmal which in Mayan means three to see the ruins here. But that is the next post

2009-11-06T07:59:00.000-08:00

November 4, 2009
Minatitlan to Pueto Real, or Isla Aganda
Well we left the Pemex station this morning amid rain and headed to Villahermosa. This was on the cuota road which was really nice (4 lane divided concrete for the most part) but the rain alternated from drizzle to rain to monsoon rain. Why is it that every time there would be road construction, a huge semi truck and trailer or we had to make a highway change it was monsoon time? We did not think we would ever escape the rain which has plagued us for the last three days. But this afternoon finally we saw sunshine. Lots of puffy white clouds with dark clouds on the horizon but there it was the sun was still in the sky above us.
We missed the turnoff in Villahermosa to Ciudad del Carmen, because all of the road signs up until then had said Hwy 180 to Frontera. But, when we were in major city traffic, with the monsoon rain coming down and streets flooded the signs say that Hwy 180 is to Ciudad del Carmen, which turns out to be farther down the road. We did manage to find a returno, after about three miles, and then got back onto the right road.
Hwy 180 is a libra road (free road), which turned out for the most part to be a Mexican three lane. These travel quite well, but due to the rain, we were slowed down. Now we were traveling thru a large vast flood plain with lots of rivers and grazing land where the elevation of the soil permitted. Otherwise, it was bull rushes and swamp rivers.
We stopped in Ciudad del Carmen at an Arreato Grocery store(?) for supplies and had lunch and an iced cream cone there.
After passing thru Ciudad del Carmen, which is a huge port city sitting between the Gulf of Mexico and Laguna de Terminos, we were on our second long and large causeway. The city sits on an island, one of a chain of islands separating the ocean from the expansive lagoon on the west side. You could not see land when looking over the lagoon westward toward the mainland on the causeway. All along the road we could see the ocean on the eastern side of us with its pounding waves. Yes, when the rain stops you get wind.
We are now stopped for the night on the outer islands at a restaurant parking area on the ocean. We are somewhere between Ciuadad del Carmen and Campeche ( please tell Dr. E. to post a map in the break room so you all can track the route). There are some palapas in front of us to break the wind and then the ocean. I had hoped to get a sunset picture but I think that the rain clouds have a different idea. But we have a shoreline for 100 miles both ways that we can see, and nothing but ocean on the horizon in front of us.
Mexico seems to be building a huge electrical transmission line along the coast and a pipeline for something. This must be a very costly project as we have been traveling beside it for almost 65 miles.
It is hard to imagine that there were no roads into the Yucatan just some 20 years ago just as there was no road down Baja up until about 1970. Well, progress certainly is being made.
Tonight, if there is a sunset or not a small vaso de vino to ease the tension of the driving day. Tomorrow, it is on to Xmal to see the first of our really large Mayan ruins.

2009-11-06T07:46:00.000-08:00

November 3, 2009
Vera Cruz to Minaltitlan
We decided not to see Vera Cruz today because the weather just has not been very nice here. First off was the wind. Last night was so bad on the coast that I got up and moved the coach so that it was not sideways to the wind. The breakers on the ocean though were spectacular. Wide waves of white foam breaking onto the shore. We had a campsite right on the ocean with a great view down the coastline both ways and the lights of Vera Cruz at night were really spectacular.
We awoke in the morning to find it still windy (like 45 mph) and so we pressed on down the coast on one of the red roads, Hwy 180 (libra roads that are sometimes pretty good) as opposed to the yellow roads (smallest on the map) which are not often well maintained. At first we hugged the coastline and there was wind which was manageable and on the west side were pastures with cattle grazing. This is cattle country with cowboys on horses and the cattle are either a brahma or brahman breed.
Then we climbed the coastal mountains and this time it was winding and we went through many small pueblos and towns. Interesting though even though the topes slowed you progress. Even had a street merchant try to sell us an iguana by the side of the road.
During this part of the journey we were headed inland and the pastureland changed to sugar cane. Up and over the coastal mountain range and we came to one of the most elegant and modern suspension bridges in I have seen. Nothing to describe it in words so I hope that we got a good enough photograph that I can show it to you.
We had lunch at Laguna Catemaco in the mountains. This is really now a lake as it is shut off from the ocean, nevertheless it is quite spectacular. We would have stayed here a night and gone on a boat ride to the islands on the lake but the rain was coming down now, either a sprinkle or mist or light rain and that option just did not seem appealing.
We dropped down off of the coastal mountains at Acayucan and then shortly thereafter picked up the cuota road Hwy 150 going south to Merida. This then will take you to Cancun.
But tonight we are at a PEMEX (gas station) just south of Minatitlan near Agua Dulce. We were to have stayed at a campground nearby but the travel guide warned us that if it was raining the ground there could be soft and some rigs had been know to get stuck. So we are boon docking here tonight but the people have been very nice and gracious to us. Even offered to hook us up to water and electricity, but we are quite self sufficient in Big Tigre (the RV).
Tomorrow, we will go to Villahermosa on the toll road and then Hwy 180 again along the coastline. This should be even better as for much of the journey we will be on islands that are between Laguna de Terminos and the Gulf of Mexico. Sort of like the causeway in Florida. Lots to see and to explore.

2009-11-06T07:32:00.000-08:00

Puebla to Vera Cruz
November 2, 2009

We left on a sunny day today from Puebla today. Certainly better than last night when we were soaked after our scooter ride. That was memorable.
The ride after getting onto the cuota (toll road) was pretty uneventful. Getting onto the cuota only took two or three stops for directions even with the map.
We needed to come from an altitude of over 8,000 ft to sea level. As you can imagine this meant we had to go downhill. Why should we be surprised at this?
At first the mountains were really enormous (imagine the Rocky Mtns) with steep gorges and signs for snow. The views were really spectacular and the foliage was all as green as could be. The road after the first 40 miles was great and although it was a steep grade (probably 7% it was all downhill and 4 lane cuota with no sharp turns. We did pass through 3-4 tunnels and this made life interesting but easy to drive.
After the section of high mountains we seemed to be on a plateau of rather flat land. At first I imagined that this was the coastal plain. Not so, after 20-30 miles we reached the coastal mountains and although we did not have to climb these but merely go downhill they were there. Next the coastal plain with the vegetation turning to sugar cane and more jungle looking from the plateau eastward.
Upon reaching Vera Cruz again the inevitable stopping and asking directions and construction so that where we were supposed to drive was blocked off and we found ourselves in a detour. This is always fun when the traffic is heavy and you just know you don’t want to go to the Centro (center of the city which always has narrow crowded streets) and it looks like that is the inevitable way you are going. Finally stopped and asked the local traffic cops and they drew me a map of where I was to go and points along the way to check that I was going in the right direction.
When we got onto the coastal plain I noticed that the wind had steadily picked up and toward Vera Cruz it was actually getting somewhat difficult to keep in a single lane with the RV. Now we are in a campground south of the city just past the town of Boca del Rio. It is on the Golf of Mexico so that we have an ocean view but the wind is probably 40 mph. So far no one is here and there is water turned on but no electricity. I hope that we do not have a hurricane coming as we have not had internet for about a week or more to check the weather reports.
Well a walk down to the beach was nice and now it is probably siesta time.

2009-11-06T07:15:00.000-08:00

October 31, 2009
Morelia to Puebla

Today was a day of nothing but driving and not a pleasant one but one with a great learning curve.
To drive in Mexico you must remember that the map you have (2009 Guia Roji)
1. May not list the road numbers on the map you have.
2. The signs that you are looking at may say to a city that does not show on the map.
3. The road that you are on may not be on the map.
4. You will definitely be lost most of the time.

So off we went on the periferico (the circle road around Morelia) and looking for the exit with Hwy 126 that goes to Querendaro. Well no such luck but we did take a road that we thought might be it and after several stops for directions were now on a tole road headed for Hwy 15. When I asked at the tole booth what road on the map I was on I was told that the road was new and not on my map.
Finally reached the 15 going to Alacomunico and all was ok now just stops for the tole booths. When we reached Alacomunico that is when things got bad. First the new northern road was still under construction so we had to take one of the yellow roads. These are the smallest on the map and as you drive you go thru every village and hamlet known to man. There are topes (speed bumps that are really hairy) everywhere and not all of them are marked.
When you go thru a town there may be three lanes going one way. For sure the right hand lane people park in. They also stop and park in the middle lane so there is a lot of maneuvering to get around cars with sometimes just inches between you and the stores on the left side of the street. This along with no one paying attention to stop lights etc.
Well after awhile we stopped at an open air café for a great lunch of barbeque chicken, black beans, tomatoes, barbequed onions, cactus and cucumbers, tortillas and a local goat cheese.
I should say that during this time we are always climbing thru mountains on a very well potted narrow road and everyone is trying to pass us on blind corners etc.
The trip in general went thru some beautiful countryside. Up and down mountains which in the beginning were pine covered and later with lots of deciduous trees and grazing land. In the higher elevations cattle and horses gave way to goats, sheep and burros. You would climb a mountain and then go into a valley about 25 miles long and across with fields of corn or wheat or hay. Then climb another mountain and repeat the process all over again. There were not a lot of switchbacks especially when we reached Norte autopista but the grades were steep and long. One of the valleys I remembered especially because it was a floodplain for a river and there were hundreds of acres of bulrushes or pussy willows and it reminded me so much of where my sister lived outside Windsor, Canada on Lake Erie.
Finally nerves frayed and tempers short we reach Jioltepec and find the Norte Autopista after about 3-4 attempts at directions. Never fully trust a street person to know directions anywhere.
Now the Norte Autopista is a great road and they give you a credit card at the entrance from like an automated machine you drive up to.. When you get off anywhere along the line they insert the card in the machine and that tells them how much you owe. Well this had to be the best road we have ever been on in Mexico. Fully concrete with wide lanes and even a wide shoulder all in concrete.
This took us somewhere north and east of Puebla and then we had a 2 Km traffic jam with people trying to pay for the next cuota (toll booth). Finally, we arrived in Puebla and after going too far, having to turn around and then trying to find yet another unmarked street we finally arrived in the campground and only drove about 12 hours today.
Turning in Mexico can be an event also. Most of the major streets have two lanes fast traffic going one way and two the other. You may not turn right or left from these lanes except to go right onto the two lanes each way which are sort of the local lanes. These are usually separated from the fast lanes by a meridian. Entrances and exits from these are about every two to three blocks but may be less frequent if the thru fare is large. Needless to say there is a lot of jockeying for position and sometimes drivers will go on and off the fast lanes to the slow ones if the fast ones are stalled. This makes for real fun driving in a sports car not a motorhome.

A Few More Morelia Photos

2009-10-30T17:58:00.000-07:00

Just a few more photos from Morelia.

Morelia

2009-10-30T17:51:00.000-07:00

October 30, 2009
Morelia

Well visiting the Morelia Central was well worth a day of our journey. This is a UNESCO historical site and you can certainly see why it is so designated. The city dates back to about 1530 and many of the buildings in the central area date to the 1500’s and 1600’s. We have not seen such a well preserved historical city since Quebec City in Canada.
The cathedral is magnificent and there are not one but two parks next to it. The buildings are all of stone somewhat like sandstone in color. I counted three churches that I could see on one street alone spaced about two blocks apart.
The city is one of multiple colleges and universities and high schools which are boarding schools here. Many are housed in the old historic district inside of old mansions or convents or churches.
The first building that we entered was the university library which was housed in an old monastery. Next we went to a museum that was supposed to have masks from all over Mexico but unfortunately they were on exhibit in another city. The building and courtyard though were spectacular.
All through the city you see doorways leading to courtyards of old colonial mansions that are now converted into shops and offices. But the colonial grandeur is still evident of what must have been an opulent lifestyle.
We saw the Theatre and although not as large and opulent as the one in Guadalajara it was never the less impressive with its stone walls and architecture from the 1700’s.
Next was a walk to the Parke de Aquductos which still has 253 of the original 7 Km of aqueduct arches and columns in the system left. This was used to bring water to the fountains in the city.
We tried to see the Museum of Modern Art but it was closed for two weeks to have the exhibits for the November Festival here.
Morelia holds an annual Music Festival here and other festivals in November and that is what the city is being readied for. I wish we could stay as this must be quite the affair. Everywhere we saw banners for this and people lining up at ticket booths to purchase tickets for some of the different events.
What we did see was everyone getting ready for Las Dia de la Muerte (The Day of the Dead). This is where you make colorful exhibits out of flowers, fruit and bread, etc into elaborate murals on the ground and walls dedicated to those lost souls who have passed on before you. Then you have a celebration to them. This is not a wake but sort of between a picnic and a Fiesta. Now I know what all those fields of flowers were for that I saw growing before we got to Morelia. Orange seems to be the predominant color.
We had a chocolate cappuccino and a chocolate drink in a candy factory store near the cathedral which had been started in 1840. Morelia for some reason was a center for candy making at that time and eat your heart out Cheryl it was just the best ever.
Afterwards we ate near the porticos that surround the main plazas. These are stone arched and covered and provided a public area next to the businesses when they were originally constructed in the 1600’s. Bev purchased a small hand painted statue of a Mexican woman there that we probably paid too much for here and will have to cart around for the next five months, but she did like it.
So much for the muse for today and I must now sign off and see if I can find an internet café here. We are boon docking in Wally World tonight and last night as there are no RV campgrounds within 30 Km of the city. But all is fine and we have all of the amenities of our lifestyle with us.
Tomorrow we go to Puebla if we can get that far with the traffic etc. But as I have said before getting around DF (Mexico City) will I am sure prove to be an adventure worth the tale in my next blog.

Guadalajara to Morelia

2009-10-30T17:45:00.000-07:00

October 29, 2009
Guadalajara to Morelia

Today was a travel day and went fairly well. By that I mean that we only got lost or almost lost several times. When traveling in Mexico it must be remembered that the road signs may not list the road number or the major city for that turnoff. Also, inevitably the sign may be half or fully covered up by a bush or tree. So it is best to keep an eagle eye out and even then sometimes you can go wrong.
First off we left for Lake Chapala which is south of Guadalajara. This was for two reasons the first of which we then did not have to get back on and off the preiferico or ring road. This is always a great adventure in white knuckle driving.
So off we went and the person at the RV park told me that the road to Lake Chapala was 40 Km down the way. Well that is not the case as it was only about 15 miles away and not 25 miles. So we had to backtrack about ½ mile when I came to the cuota (tole) station and knew I had gone too far. After that it was easy to find Lake Chapala and it is a very large lake.
There is a very large foreign community here and most of the northern part of the lake is wall to wall US and Canadian settlements. One of the largest is Ajijic and the other the town of Chapala. Because it is a two lane road the driving was slow with lots of topes (speed bumps) to slow you down even more. Bev did find some beads which we bought from a roadside vendor.
The lake itself is huge with I understand too much water as they had a lot of rain last year. We could see trees in the water on the southern shore of the lake.
From there another country road hwy 35 out to the town of El Barca. Meandering thru vast fields of sugar cane and something else I could not tell what. Finally at the town of El Barca we met up with the tole road again (Hwy 15) and on our way to Morelia.
Along the way we passed thru long valleys (about 15-20 miles each) and then another mountain pass with each mountain pass getting us higher in elevation. I should have realized that this was inevitable as we are heading towards Mexico City which is high in elevation.
The vegetation changed from sugar cane, and aguave cactus to corn and field crops and finally to great stretches of grazing land. Now this is not like the grasslands of the US but has grasses and also small and large trees. Everywhere though it is green, and where the valleys are flat enough you see cultivation in very black soil.
Upon arriving in Morelia we again had to take the ring road to get to where we wanted to go. After one or two almost failed attempts we got onto the ring road only to miss our turnoff. Now you say this should not be too much of a problem but it is as you can not always turn around. Lucky for me there was a returno in about ½ mile or so.
Tomorrow it is taxi time again with a trip to one of the oldest cities and a UNESCO historical city.
That is all for the time being.

Guadalajara Day 2

2009-10-30T17:39:00.000-07:00

October 28, 09
Guadalajara
Today we visited and explored the central city of Guadalajara. Another interesting bus ride to the center of town and then out to see the sights. Fortunately, they are all in close proximity as walking was about the only means of transportation for us.

First was the main cathedral. Just absolutely immense taking up a whole block with twin spires and two domes. Started in 1630 and obviously redone several times the original stained glass in the domes came from Germany. The stone work of the Spaniards everywhere was impressive but you felt a kind of sorrow for the Indians who were forced to do this labor. Inside the gold leaf and vaulted ceilings with the main nave and the wing naves are immense.
There were two cathedrals on the central plaza and the second although not as immense was just as spectacular on the inside.

Next some of the many plazas that exist in the central zone and surround the cathedral. Always with their gazebos and fountains and gardens. These were where the people went to be seen and enjoy the activities of the town.

We visited many of the government buildings including the city hall where there were two events going on. One a job fair in the main patio area of the building and then a students government day on the second floor. These buildings again all have immense murals usually depicting the revolution, or the Spanish conquering of Mexico.

After that a visit to the local museum where they were having an exhibit of the Fabraje collection from the Czars time in Russia. Most impressive with all of the diamond and ruby encrusted pieces which showed the immense wealth of the Russian aristocracy of the time.

After that was a tour of the Central Market which was the largest I have ever seen. There were three or four levels with whole streets of just shoes and then another of vegetables and another of meats. I had a torta (a large, very large sandwich) made on a large roll with pork and lettuce and tomatoes, etc which is then grilled on the top and bottom. I wanted only ½ of one but they mistook what I said and cut it in half and then gave me both halves on two plates. Ah well, I ate most all of it and Bev had about one bite of the meat.

It was now time to go home but first a stop for a picture of the Hall of Justice on Majistrate Calle. Again one of those buildings whose architecture is just stunning with the interior courtyard and the spiral stairways.

We tried catching the bus where we were told that it would stop and finally someone posted a sign that the route had been changed that day and it went on a different street. So off we went following our now guide ( a woman going on the same bus as we were.
We got where we were supposed to be and then waited the longest that we have ever had to wait for a bus (probably 20 minutes at least). Well our bus finally came and then he went a different route than what we had come on. Still the 258 bus but a different route back. So when we were close I got us off and then we got a cab the rest of the way. Bev is now tuckered out and sleeping the rest of the weary sightseer.

Tomorrow we will go to Lake Chapala and then on to Morelia and Puebla. We will skip Tonopal (that is the town in Guadalajara where all of the pottery is made.

Well that is all of the adventure that I will share for today. Here is hoping that soon we will have internet to post all of this.

Guadalajara Day One

2009-10-30T17:30:00.001-07:00

October 27, 09

Guadalajara, Mexico

We arrived in Guadalajara yesterday and found our campground which is San Jose Del Tajo without too much difficulty. As you can imagine with the city being the second largest in Mexico we are quite a ways out of the center of town. We are on the road to Colima just 3 miles out from the Perifecto or circle road which goes around the center of the city.
The campground is an older one but quite nice in that it is quiet and on a major bus route with Costco, Walmart and Mega just across the main street. We do not here the noise as the RV park is ¼ mile off the street on a cobblestone driveway with lots between us and the traffic. It is somewhat old and only 15 amp electric but there are lots of trees and the grounds and sites are well separated.
Today we took the 285 bus into the center of the city. We are such adventurous travelers. Traveling by bus in a country like this is an adventure. The driver collects fares, drives, and shifts gears all with one hand while talking on his cell phone the whole time with the other. Then ½ way there he stops at a Pemex station to take a short potty break. Well you never know when nature will call.
We did meet an interesting lady who was partially sighted who had lived in LA for 10 years and now resides in her home town here. She helped os with the stop to get off and others were most helpful. We could have taken another bus to Tlaquepaque but opted instead for a cab.
Tlaquepaque is an artisan community and part of the city although it could be a city in and of itself. Sort of like Riverside and San Bernardino. The streets are narrow and some are pedestrian only but lined with multiple small and large shops which have all of the arts and crafts of Mexico in them and some things that you may not see anywhere else.
Along with this were the central parks and cathedrals which you will find in most colonial towns. These are always worth looking at and admiring the architecture and style. The one here dates back the 1600’s and is massive and ornate as you can imagine.
We went looking for furniture and found one shop among many which would hand craft furniture for us. We took some pictures and a card so that if things do not work out in Costa Rica then we will have other options.
We did manage to buy a handful of small things including designer jeans for Bev and have lunch at a neat little patio restaurant.
Lastly it was a cab home (too tired to ride the bus all that way). Afterwards a trip to the Mega store to replenish bread and other goodies. Tomorrow we pick up the laundry and will go to the central area again for sightseeing.
As you already know we have not had internet for a week and that has not changed in the park here. Maybe at the next stop we will be able to get online. If not I am sure the world has not gotten much worse without our knowing it.

2009-10-30T17:25:00.001-07:00

October 24-25, 09
Mazatlan,
This is now a very large city with so many hotels and condos it is impossible to count them all. Most are in the Dorado or Golden Zone which we drove thru yesterday. It is packed wall to wall with tourist hotels.
We are staying north of town at Punta Cerritos which is much less inhabited and has a really nice cove area with tide pools and a small tourist shopping area.
Yesterday we went down the Malacone which is the old beachfront town area and stopped for coffee under a palapa on the beach. It was nice and quiet because it was still early. The nightclubers do not get up until noon time or later. There was a side trip to the Central Market (every Central American town has one) and this one again covered an entire city block. Lots of small stalls or shops are located inside the central market and you will find clothing, fruits and vegetables, meats, fish and just about anything you might want in one including sopas which are like a lunch counter.
After buying a few fresh fruits etc we waked to the cathedral and the park next to it. These are always busy places with lots of foot traffic and people just going about their daily lives.
We drove the scooter around the old section of town looking at the old buildings and admiring the architecture. Always a fun thing to do and especially on the scooter as the view is better and with the narrow streets (calles) it is much easier to get around.
Today was a visit to the Mega Store (huge supermarket) and to try again to get Bev a hepatitis A shot. We went to the Sharp Hospital located here and they had hepatitis B but not A. They could have the A in the morning after 11:00 am but I would like to be gone by then so we will try in Guadalahara.
I fixed the back storage area on the scooter so that now it stays on and will open and close better. We ( I ) had a slight altercation in Kino with it but all is fine now.
Well this afternoon should be down to the tide pools again and some wading, swimming and just sunning.

2009-10-30T17:14:00.000-07:00

October 23, 09
Huatabampito to Mazatlan
Well after a very long day of driving we are in Mazatlan at the Punta Cerritos RV Park. This is a very nice facility which will be even nicer in 1-2 years when the pool and the palapa areas are completed. It looks to be mostly permanent sites with some that are not. And we met another Trek here from British Columbia (Max and Elizabeth). They have a newer Trek than ours and they have a permanent site here but they also arrived just today.

It was mostly flat farmland all the way and again it seemed like a rich delta soil which would have been the color of black coal when it was wet. Other than the fields and they were enormous everything was green and lush. We seem to be out of the desert area and the vegetation that is wild seems to be lots of eucalyptus type trees and other varieties.

Just before Mazatlan there are hills or butts that rise up and this means that we are getting into the mountains from here south. Before this you could see the mountains to the east of us but it seemed to me that we were on a coastal plain or delta. Lots of irrigation between Navajoa and Culiacan. They seem to be able to grow lots of grains further north and vegetable crops. Hundreds of acres of shaded greenhouses. No need to put them under glass, just filtered shade from the sun.

Then as we got closer to Mazatlan it was sugar cane and even some Tequila cactus. We will go thru the town of Tequila on our way south so we did not stop to sample.

Mazatlan itself is a tourist mecca. Lots of large scale hotels and condos on the beach north of town and many of the RV parks have disappeared to make way for them. I am trying to convince Bev that we should take the scooter into town tomorrow and see the El Cento district and do some shopping. She is resisting so we shall see. I hope that I did not bring the scooter down for nothing.

Well another sunset in paradise with the tide pools in front of us. Here’s wishing you all have a great weekend up in the north.

Kino Bay to Huatabampito

2009-10-23T07:53:00.001-07:00

Ocober 22, 09
Kino Bay to Huatabampio:
Well last night I wrote about the last sunset in Kino Bay for awhile. Possibly his should be like the old surfer movie and just call this trip “The Endless Sunset”.
We are on a beach at the El Mirador Restaurant run by Enrique and his family and we stayed on this same beach when visiting here with my sister years ago. Somewha off the beaten path but endless miles of beach with no one on it. We are this time in a campground with real electricity. Last time it was just the beach which was nice and the police checked on us three times in the night to make sure that we were ok. Even had some ice cream with them.
As you can see if I was able to post the pictures the sunsets here are just great. No islands but this is a huge long peninsula with I am told the only south facing beach for hundreds of miles.
We ate at the El Mirador this evening and the Talapia (a fish) was really well prepared and very fresh. Tomorrow I will go over and use their internet and try to post the last two days.
We travelled thru some of the richest farmland you can imagine with huge fields of grain and potatoes. This is delta land and the soil is rich and the smells of the farm produce hang in the air. Going thru town of Obregon and Navajoa we then travelled to the coast to get here.
We have bypassed Alamos a favorite stopover for us and seeing out friend Tom Harkness who lives there permanently now and also a visit to the Copper Cyn. Maybe, on the way back I would like to go there again if time permits. For now the adventure carries us further south.
Tomorrow we will be in either Culiacan or Mazatlan. If it is Mazatlan then we will have reached the furthest point south that Bev and I have ever driven before. It was in the early 70’s that we took our then El Camino with the camper shell and drove to Mazatlan. The roads then were two lane and everyone then thought that we were crazy. The roads are better but everyone now knows that we are a little off the center line of normal. Well we still have fun and if you are the odd person in the crowd it does not bother or affect you personally, only those around you.
Well so much for philosophizing for tonight. It is late and time to read before I fall asleep.

The Last Kino Sunset

2009-10-23T07:44:00.000-07:00

Last Sunset in Kino Bay,
Well here is the picture of our last sunset for quite a while in Kino Bay.
Tomorrow we head out for Panama and our next adventure. We have been busy all day getting the RV packed and the house all buttoned up.
Lastly was haircuts and calling the kids. It may be some time before we have internet again and Bev wanted to have a little time to talk.
The first attempt to put the scooter on the back of the RV did not go well ( I launched it right off the far side of the ramp). Luckily not much damage other than my ego.
Scruffy the cat is sensing something is up and he’s not really sure about all of this. He thinks that this home suits him just fine and why do we want to cramp ourselves into that little RV.
Well if Hurricane Rick has passed the area we will begin tomorrow. There were some pretty gfood winds tonight here in Kino Bay and the news says that the storm passed Mazatlan this morning and headed east so I am hoping that this will die down tonight. Otherwise it will be the next day and wait it out until then.
Well the Trek is prepped and off we go into the unknown.

Leaving Kino Bay, Sonora, MX

2009-10-21T17:07:00.000-07:00

October 22, 09
Leaving Kino Bay
We are now ready to leave Kino Bay and head south. This has been an interesting month with lots of activities. My daughter, Vera, son-in-law, Gabe and both grandchildren, Christopher and Catlin, were here for ten days and that was great to have them down here for the first time.
We took them back to Phoenix to catch the plane back to CA and then came back down here for some more work and relaxation.
So far the projects that have been done this far are:
Redo the palapa: Yes hurricane whatever destroyed the flagstone area around the palapa and it had to be rebuilt. But all is fine now and we even have a large driftwood log in front of it.
Doors on the cabinets in the barbeque area: We now have doors on the cabinets in the barbeque area. Nice not to see just openings there.
Storage area for beach things: We built some enclosed storage in the covered patio next to our bedroom to house the beach things out of the way. This now needs to have doors built for it on the next trip down.
Walkway and walls in the common stairway area: We built stairs with short walls for the owners of the lots around us so that they could access the beach area. Not a simple project but I did have some help for this one.
Painting the Kitchen area with color: Bev had some help from Jill our decorating color person in selecting some bright colors for the kitchen area around the stove and windows. This is not the end of the painting projects but only the very beginning.
Finishing the chest of drawers in the bedroom: This was finally finished with the drawers installed and hardware put on.
Planting: We managed to plant the inner courtyard and the outside planters, One with cactus and the other with plants and trees. What a job hauling all of the sand out and then putting topsoil in. Then came sprinklers and an automatic timer system to complete the project but it is done and now we can only hope that it all works, because, we won’t be here to check on it.
Internet and satellite TV: We now have internet installed at the house and satellite tv so we can now say that we have all of the vices that we had in the US.
Marine radio: I installed an antenna for the marine radio so that Bev can get the Kino Bay News in the morning. All she has to do is be up by 8:00 am.
Paying the Bills: We paid for the trust for another year and paid the attorney to complete the work on the lease of the Federal Zone in front of the house. I paid the water bill for next year (no meters you just pay for a years worth of water), and tomorrow I will try to have the electric bill deducted from the checking account automatically. Still have not been able to get online to pay the taxes but they are not due until January.
Some pictures are posted and now that we are traveling I will try to post more often.

Redlands and home

2008-11-13T19:53:00.000-08:00

Redlands, CA and the end of the line
The RV is now back in Redlands and we are in our base home. The odometer now reads miles and I know that somewhere I recorded the mileage before I left on the trip but I’ll be darned if I can find that now. I believe we have travelled about 12,000 to 15,000 miles but whatever it was it was great. We left with a full wallet and gas tank and now have an empty wallet and ½ a gas tank full of fuel, but I would not hesitate a moment to do it again.
Along the way we met people who could not comprehend why or how we could be gone from home so long. Life is full of choices and for those who asked how we could do it that is not the choice they should make. For me it was the ideal choice to see the Alaska tundra, the Arctic ocean, the glaciers of British Columbia, the redwoods of northern California, the windswept beaches of Oregon, the rolling pastures of Wyoming, the plains and desert of South Dakota, the locks of the Great Lakes and Mississippi River, the places of my youth in Ontario, the art galleries of many of the cities we were in, the rushing water of Niagara Falls, the quaint towns and cities of Quebec, the fall colors of the Northeast, the history of places like Salem and Boston MA, the forests of the Smokey Mountains, the music of Branson, and the Emerald and Carlsbad Caverns.
I know that many will ask what was my favorite and I can only say that like your children they are all loved and although they are different you love them all.
It will be good to see Vera my daughter and Gabe her husband and of course Christopher and Caitlyn my two most beautiful and wonderful grandchildren. It will be a time for family now and the holidays to renew those times when we are all grateful for what we have and what has been given to us.
I will not post in this blog for some time to come as life will be just a monotonous, boring monotone of the same things happening over and over again. Then the next adventure will begin again next fall when we will head south this time to see the wonders of Central America. Yes for those of you who wish to listen in and read we will be going as far as Panama by RV if we can. I long to see more of this world before it is no longer possible for me to do so.
I hope that any of you who have read this found some humor and it has made your life a little richer for the time you have spent reading it. I have not in the past read any of the comments sent to me nor responded to them. It is not that I do not care but time does not permit me that luxury. I have all that I can do just to write the blog usually on a daily basis with all of the other things that need to be done on the trip. You to dear reader have adventures to lead and places to be and loved ones to hug before the day is finished.

Kino Bay to Quartzsite

2008-11-13T19:52:00.000-08:00

Kino Bay to Quartzsite, AZ
We left Kino B ay in the morning and made our way back to Tucson, AZ to the Diamond Casino for the night. They had a seafood buffet there in the evening so to help them out we went to the buffet to help pay back for some of the free camping we did in their parking lot. The buffet was really great with king crab legs, shrimp and top sirloin with pie and ice cream for dessert it made for really full tummies for the night. The only downside was that I did not have a wifi signal in the RV and at that point was too lazy to go outside near the casino to get hooked up. So ya all will just have to wait till we get home to Redlands before I can post the last of the blogs.
We arrived in Quartzsite about 1:00 pm and did some browsing and shopping for nothing much of anything. I bought a new water hose for the RV and some misc odd tools for Kino Bay but there really was not much that we needed. The vendors have not really arrived for the winter season either, so there were just a few of the mostly permanent shops that were open. Still Bev managed to find a basket for me to cart down to Kino Bay next time.
After doing that it was about 3:00 pm and I did not relish the idea of driving the 4-5 hours needed to get home so we will spend the night here in the desert. The really cool thing about this area is that you can just camp out on the BLM land anywhere in the desert. There are large expanses of open area available and at this time of year almost no one is around. Not so in just two more months when the desert will fill up with over 250,000 RV’s from the snowbirds flocking here after Christmas with the family in the northwest and northeast. Then it becomes a virtual RV party out here with different groups camped out in wagon wheel style in the open desert.
We will return here also for about a week in January to be with the Southwest Trek Fun Club which meets here every year. About 80 or so RV’s all of which are the same make and manufacturer. It is a pleasant time to meet with those you have not seen in a year and have a really fun time acquainting yourself with others you have never met. People from all over the US and Canada seem to come here.
Well it must be time to close this blog and get some dinner for the evening and then the desert does tend to get cold in the nighttime this time of year so it will be bundle up time.
Tomorrow night we will be safely tucked into our beds once more in Redlands which will be the climax ending to this trip. It was a great time and a wonderful adventure.